Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i have a s2 r33 gtst and my odometer jus recently stopped working, i wanna fix it asap to keep a tally of my k's travelled in the car since buying it and i'm lookin for another dash cluster to swap over while mine gets fixed but i'm unsure as to weather s1 through to s2 clusters fit and work?

any info on this subject would be greatly appreciated!

also does any1 have a s2 cluster with about 75,000ks they r willing to sell?

thanks Matt.

thx for the reply mate, so i've been told they all interchange but im still unsure as the guy i asked said he wasnt 100%

also can any1 point me in the direction of a tutorial on how to get instrument cluster out of the dash?

i dont wanna break anything an with my patience i wont hav much left when im done lol

thx Matt

pretty sure the clusters are the same, but the dash surrounds are different.

to get the cluster out is extremely easy. now i am going from memory here as i haven't had my 33 for a few years now.

remove gear shift surround. pretty sure this will just pull up (pull up at the back). not sure about auto's though.

now i can't remember if the dash surround has 2 screws that hold it in place underneath the gear surround, but you will see them if there are any. then just unclip the dash surround. you may need to lower the steering wheel before doing this.

once you have this out of the way then you can get the cluster. i think there is a small panel held on by 2 screws above the cluster. this should then give you access to all 4 screws that hold the cluster in. undo them and the cluster will come out. then just unclip the plugs at the back and you are done.

to get the cluster out is extremely easy. now i am going from memory here as i haven't had my 33 for a few years now.

remove gear shift surround. pretty sure this will just pull up (pull up at the back). not sure about auto's though.

now i can't remember if the dash surround has 2 screws that hold it in place underneath the gear surround, but you will see them if there are any. then just unclip the dash surround. you may need to lower the steering wheel before doing this.

once you have this out of the way then you can get the cluster. i think there is a small panel held on by 2 screws above the cluster. this should then give you access to all 4 screws that hold the cluster in. undo them and the cluster will come out. then just unclip the plugs at the back and you are done.

awesome thanks heaps mate, soon as i find another cluster i shoud b right now.

i'll hav an attempt at it this wknd

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Agree with Rob. I recently did mine and replacing with a brand new unit made the most sense compared with rebuilding my existing gearbox.
    • Are you suggesting that the kit did a cheap and nasty job of just jamming the wheel in between other things and caused the misalignment? I mean, we normally do this with an integrated crank trigger wheel, not something bodged on. It's not 1995 any more.
    • I mean, given the number of BMWs you own their tolerance for improper torque is rather low. The number of torque + angle spec bolts and non-reusable bolts in one is nuts.
    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
×
×
  • Create New...