Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Also have:

Silver R32 GTR bonnet with small dint $300

Silver R32 GTR boot with spoiler and badge $320

R32 GTR front indicators Pair $130

hey mate can you send me pics of the bonnet an boot wing please

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi

I would like to look at the bonnet and did the greddy turbo kit get picked up.

cheers

yes greddy kit was posted. i have to pick up the bonnet, will let u know when i have

will the rear calipers just bolt straight up to r34 gtr?

The front will bolt straight up but the rear will not. The rear is calipers only, no rear disk or brackets

is the clutch push or pull type? how much kw is it good for??

If you have a look at the ATS site http://www.a-t-s-usa.com/ats-products-R/c%...tch-table.shtml it states that the TWIN PLATE clutch with 1350kg pressure plate is rate at 800HP

All ATS clutches are PUSH type, but i have a OS Giken Pull to Push converter also forsale, this allows th clutch to be used in cars which use a pull type clutch (eg r33 gtr)

hey mate is the clutch push or pull? is it r33 gtr?

All ATS clutches are PUSH type, but i have a OS Giken Pull to Push converter also forsale, this allows th clutch to be used in cars which use a pull type clutch (eg r33 gtr)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...

Still got lots of stuff left ta45 turbo kit is no ebay with lots of other bits for skyline

R32 Nissan Skyline GTR GTST A/C climate control unit disp...

AU $50.00

AU $55.00

bin_15x54.gif9d 20h

rb26dett rb26 ignitor igniter module GTR Skyline bnr32 bnr33 r32 r33

AU $90.00

AU $100.00

bin_15x54.gif9d 20h

Bee-R Fuel rail RB26dett skyline r32 r33 r34 GTR RB26

AU $89.00

AU $95.00

bin_15x54.gif9d 21h

TIMING BELT GATES Racing; SUIT NISSAN skyline RB20 RB25 R...

AU $110.00

AU $115.00

bin_15x54.gif9d 21h

JIC Adjustable Front caster rods R32 GTR bnr32

AU $240.00

AU $255.00

bin_15x54.gif9d 21h

GFB Stealth FX blow off valve to suit MY01+ WRX onwards

AU $180.00

AU $200.00

bin_15x54.gif9d 21h

HPI ENGINE TORQUE DAMPER NISSAN SKYLINE R33 R34 GTR RB26...

AU $180.00

AU $200.00

bin_15x54.gif9d 21h

Billet Steering Adaptor ALL NISSANS s13 s14 s15 r32 r33 r...

AU $40.00

AU $45.00

bin_15x54.gif9d 21h

Adjustable rear traction rods Suit S13 180SX R32 300zx

AU $80.00

AU $85.00

bin_15x54.gif9d 21h

AU $75.00

AU $80.00

bin_15x54.gif9d 22h

Nissan Skyline R32 door hinge Front right

AU $20.00

AU $25.00

bin_15x54.gif9d 22h

Stainless Steel Hose covers set RED UNIVERSAL

AU $45.00

AU $50.00

bin_15x54.gif9d 22h

VIAIR 400C AIR BAG COMPRESSOR, 4x4, MINITRUCK, HILUX, ROD...

AU $175.00

AU $180.00

bin_15x54.gif9d 22h

HKS VPC Suit RB26 GTR SYKLINE - REMOVER YOUR AFM AND RUN ...

AU $300.00

AU $350.00

bin_15x54.gif9d 22h

RB26 DETT head bolt set with washers GTR R32 R33 R34 rb26...

AU $50.00

AU $55.00

bin_15x54.gif9d 22h

ATS Twin Plate Carbon Clutch Suit GTR R32 R33 R34 bnr32 b...

AU $1,450.00

AU $1,550.00

bin_15x54.gif9d 23h

Os Giken Pull to Push clutch converter R33 R34 GTR Nissan...

AU $185.00

AU $195.00

bin_15x54.gif9d 23h

HKS TA45 Turbo Kit 600HP GTR RB26 R32 R33 R34 Nissan Skyl...

AU $1,350.00

AU $1,450.00

bin_15x54.gif9d 23h

Edited by GTR-31L

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...