KCA349 diff lock kit

[skyzerr33]

got me the last one available till next shipment arrives hehe

west shocks had 6 in stock 5 were already spoken for.

right to how easy is it to install? considering i don't know what the rear sub frame looks like but think i found the rear of it but can't tell where the front is.

or should i just get the guys servicing it to put it on Monday?

ps: and what NVH? it says kit will increase NVH as well as not being suitable for road use.

[Gradenko]

Its relatively easy to install. Just make sure to have (or borrow) a torque wrench, crow bar and an extra pair of hands.

The front mount for the diff cradle is just infront of the rear wheel and is closer to the outside of car than the rear mount is.

NVH is not too bad after install. I didn't notice any increase in noise, although thats probably cause the noise from my rear wheel bearing is drowning it out It lets a little bit more vibration into the cabin when you put the power down, but it just adds to the go-fast rush. The biggest positive for me (on stock suspension), is that it got rid the crab walk the rear end does when you go over certain bumps.

Heres instructions that someone posted on the whiteline yahoo group:

          First thing I did was dive under the car to find where they go. Then I decided to drive my car up some ramps. (The exhaust slightly scrapes the ramps.) The ring locations are roughly: Front- just in front of the rear wheel partially covered by a metal plate. Rear- just in front of the fuel tank located a little further towards the middle than the fronts. A rear control sits almost underneath the rear location.

There are 2 nuts and 1 bolt on each side at the front to undo. The bolt and one nut are 13mm??? and the main nut is 17mm. I decided that I should work on only on bush at a time. (Prolly not good to have your subframe all undone I managed to get the nuts undone with rachet/sockets I used a short extension on the bolt (closest to center of car). This gives clearance and ease of turning where the exhaust gets in the way. Once the three nut/bolts are undone the metal plate comes off (prolly falls off)

Simply put the bush on the metal plate and stick it back up where it came from. The rubber bushing already in place does not need removing (I did try but had no chance plus you want that there if you wish to return to nromal. -why you would I don't know I have little or no increase in NVH)

You can use the outermost nut to hold the plate in place. Once this is so, use a Jack to push the plate/ring up so you can get the 17mm nut back on. Before tightening this up up all the way drop the JAck, but make sure the nut isn't going to fly off. Tighten this up (there is a torque setting somewhere if you have a torque wrench otherwise just get it damn tight) and hopefully the remaining bolt will go in fairly easily (i.e. hole lined up with bolt-worked for me every time). Repeat for the other side. Easy (well it should have been)                                                                                                                        Now for the rears. I used the smaller rings (i.e large at front, small at rear for best overall) These in theory are even easier. Unfortunately I discovered that it is quite hard to get the nuts on/off. This was much simplified by using a long extension shaft on the socket. I also used a pipe to extend the rachet handle (also for the front). Once I did this is was a piece of cake (other than breaking the extension shaft on the last nut). Once again place the ring on the metal cup and push it up so you can get the nut on. (I didn't need to use the jack-in fact there is little room to get a jack on and tighten the nut-possible but not really practical)

Drive your car down the ramp and off you go.

That was done on a 300zx, so a few things are differnt for us, like no need for a socket extension because the rear control arm isn't in the way. The exhaust may be in the way though.

[Jay95R33]

Are these those yellow donut things that get rid of axle tramp???

Or is it an actuall mechanical diff locker?

If it's the donut thingies that you put in your sub frame I'd be keen to know how you go with them. See how much more traction you get off the line...

I've already got a locker diff :D

[Boostzor]

Yep that exactly what they are. Gradenko will swear by them but im not sure what the placebo effect was:rolleyes:

He reckons heeps less axle tramp and also stops the ass from rolling around in corners.

[Jay95R33]

Sweet.

Yeah I've heard that they twist (or something) to give you more traction. Something like - under power they will twist the diff down a little to give better traction????? Aparently you can set them up for drift too

Skyzerr33 - Let us know how it goes.

Thanks

J

[skyzerr33]

looks like i'll be installing myself and asking the wa guys for help

grovel grovel anyone wanna help?

JPR said they would need the car fpr two days to do my service and install the dif lock kit lol.

[Boostzor]

I saw the kit and its dam easy. They give u diagrams and all

And if Gradenko can do it in a couple of hours im sure its gotta be pretty dam easy:lol:

[Gradenko]

Heres a web site showing an install of similar bushes on another Z (only in red instead of yellow). Those guys have to use a jack and jack stands just to get under the car, but its easy enuf to do on a 'line without jacking up

http://www.z32.org/html/subframespacers.shtml

There's no placebo effect here! You can feel it putting down power in 1st gear, when in the past it would happily wheel spin.

The most important thing it does is get rid of 1 inches of slack the rubber bushings give the sub-frame. After that, you can set it up for drift or traction by changing geometry of the diff in relation to the wheel.

[skyzerr33]

torque wrench and axal stands here i come

they'll be on for the 29th as will the fmic

[Gradenko]

Ooh, fmic as well. Ramping things up for mc day, hey :uh-huh: