Jump to content
SAU Community

Stock Rb25det

Roundcakes

By Roundcakes,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Roundcakes Contributor

Roundcakes

Posted
  • Author
Posted
yeah that sounds about right if everything is completely standard.

Get a front mount and wind the boost up to about 10psi and you should see 170 or so.

Very good to hear, thanks :(. Its running 7psi atm, so that sounds perfect. Apparently the old engine was running 14 or so, you could definitely hear the difference. Probably why it blew the rings+valves.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317428-stock-rb25det/#findComment-5189633
Share on other sites
boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted
Very good to hear, thanks :( . Its running 7psi atm, so that sounds perfect. Apparently the old engine was running 14 or so, you could definitely hear the difference. Probably why it blew the rings+valves.

Noway it blew from 14 lol they can take 18psi and up to around 300kw and still be fairly reliable

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317428-stock-rb25det/#findComment-5189643
Share on other sites
DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted

I'll briefly explain this, but if you have any follow up questions, do a search, there are THOUSANDS of threads on this...

Basically, the ECU knows how much air is going into the engine from the AFM (Air Flow Meter), then it adjusts how much fuel to put in from that signal. If you have a BOV that vents the air into the atmosphere, then the engine thinks that all that vented air has gone into the engine and adjusts the fuel as such. This can cause the engine to run rich, flood, and stall, quite often!

You'll notice it on decelleration and clutching out, like coming up to a set of lights.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317428-stock-rb25det/#findComment-5189644
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • GTSBoy
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

×
×
  • Create New...