Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just wondering what is the better option. I know people say that there is minimal if any top end hp difference but ive also herd that cats also help with the exhaust flow through turbulence etc. Is this true? and if it were wouldnt a high flow cat be alot better for the car all round rather than a de-cat? Just wondering because ive just purchased a decat and wondering whether it was the right choice to go for a straight through 3" pipe (not counting the high flow muff before the cannon at the back)?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317509-decats-vs-catpipes/
Share on other sites

Remember exhaust characteristics are different for an N/A and a turbo car. A dump pipe on a turbo car should theoretically be as big as possible, you want the best flow possible period. However, on an N/A car it is different, it is more complex, an exhaust restriction can help with down low power but reduce top end and vice versa.

Whereas a nice large dump pipe on a turbo will give better response and top end, its a win win. Up to a point obviously where any increase in flow doesnt make any difference.

In summary to your question, the decat pipe will be better performance wise on your turbo car.

Your cat must be very restrictive to cause such a change, most cars would barely notice a difference. When you remove it, the exhaust is flowing a lot better meaning more boost, meaning more air for the engine causing it to run lean.

Define running like shit? loss of power? If its extremely lean you will loose power.

Edited by Harey
so explain why my car runs like shit when i run open dump pipe but runs tops when i put a cat on?

soz 4 highjacking ur thread

probably coz it hasnt been tuned for that set up.

yeah exactly right,

when i had my cat taken off and a decat put on the tune was very lean and the car made 260rwkw on the same boost, which was down from 285rwkw with the cat, but with a little tweaking of the Nistune to correct the mixtures. the car was able to make 320rwkw with an extra pound of boost.

i went to a decat because my cat was restricting flow because the guts of it had come loose and was moving around in there.

if you got an aftermarket ECU get it retuned, if its stock. then maybe the extra flow is just too much for the ecu to handle?

A good high flow cat will be quite expensive, around the $500~+ range. Metalcat comes to mind but the postives outweigh the negatives, probably a small 10-15rwhp possibly to be made by running straight through but the legality of being found out with no cat and having your car slapped with a major defect and towed away makes up for that.

I was running a decat. I put my cat back in, and did feel the car seemed to run better or soother with it on. It was down a little in power....but the car felt better to drive.

Yup it could do that. Are you running the standard ecu?

All you are doing is improving your exhaust flow, which has to be a good thing, it just means sometimes the ecu is not ready for it and needs to be adjusted.

Had my car around three years now and when I first got it I used a holesaw with extension to core out my cat and the whole insides disintegrated and just simply fell out (alot easier than trying to bash it out. that’s if it’s in pretty good condition like mine was). I found that when I first did it my exhaust note changed ever so slightly (more aggressive but probably more due to gaskets constantly blowing out at the time) and boost response is slightly better and went to rev limiter fine on stock boost. HOWEVER since I have now fit FMIC and played with the boost a bit it definitely starts to lean out around 5000-5500 and above.

(I’m only running 8-8.5psi due to R&R as I have a massive CAI which was causing compressor surge and R&R. Its now partially blocked until I get Haltech and tune. And yes I have cleaned my AFM, gasket gooed, taped and cleaned my coils and re-gapped to .8.)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...