Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just did my first install over the weekend, put in some new splits and an amp to run them... Only problem is that I now have shitty engine noise coming throught the speakers!!! All gear is brand new, Blaupunkt splits and a little 2ch Jaycar Response amp running the splits, new RCA's and speaker wire. Pioneer DEH-P700R head unit. Blaupunkt 12" sub is going in later, when I can figure out how to tie it down :rofl:

I'm not sure if I've set this up properly, but here's how it is;

From the head unit, I've got the remote amp turn on wire (blue one) running down the driver side of the car.

All 3 RCA cables (front, rear, sub) are taped together and also taped onto the speaker wire for the splits. This is running down the passenger side of the car, under carpet/rear seat, passed the battery and into the amp, which is located directly under rear driver's side speaker.

As this was a DIY and learn process for me, I'm pretty sure I stuffed up somewhere...

Should I have the speaker and RCA's going through the driver's side, so it doesn't pass the battery?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks guys,

Kyran.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31755-help-with-engine-noise/
Share on other sites

Wouldn't recommend running your RCAs down the drivers side, that's where the factory loom is for all the rear stuff (lights, HICAS, etc.). I installed mine the other day, was getting late so I ran them down the drivers side with everything else - bad mistake.

not sure on skylines but pretty much have ur remote wire and constante on your driver side take of ur kick and door seals and the back seat and run them down the side on the floor under the carpet do the same with the rca's speaker wire on the opposite side of the car if thats not workin then try runnin your rca's down the centre of the car its easy to do on a silvia dunno about a skyline as silvias come undone easly

what RCA's are u using ? if there just your normal once's then that could be the problem but try runnin them down the centre if not luck get some better sheilded RCA's like i said b4 i can sell u mine 4 cheap and there new

good luck

Booster, yep already done that... Still having problems guys, I moved the amp to a different spot and still no good, tried different RCA leads as well. I even tried running the RCA's from the head unit, out the window, around the car, into the boot and wired to amp - still no good... Also re-rigged up power cable and ground cable location... The power wire is still running down the middle of the car (from head unit, passed gear stick, under console, under back seat and into boot.

Anyone got any other suggestions?

I might hook up my rear speakers to the amp and see if I still get engine noise, at least then I can elimate the problem being the front speaker wires...

Right oh guys, time to bite the bullet and throw the physics lessons out the window. I'm calling on 15 years of experience as an installer to answer this one...

I have done enough installs (many of which have been Skylines) now that I can confidently add this too the discussion:

1. I have never had any kind of interferance from a remote wires or speaker wires even when they're bundled with the signal cables.

2. You should always run the singal cables perpendicular to power cable when they HAVE to cross.

3. I have installed amps on both sides of Skylines and never had a problem with system noise.

4. Get some DECENT quality RCA's like Streetwires, Stinger etc... ie no Aerpro / Jaycar / Fusion / Schneider stuff - I know this should not make a difference but I said forget physics for a second.

5. Make sure when you bundle up the excess RCA cables you don't coil them into a circular pile - this tends to make them aerials... bundle them in long lengths...

If none of these solve it I'll drive down there from NSW and sort it out for you for free... :P:P

Seriously, sometimes it pays to forget physics and call on experience from real-world experience instead...

Oh, and there is no polite way to say this so if it's okay with people I'll just come right out and say it; and I mean this with all respect to you guys...

If you start with cheap products like Jaycar, expect problems...

Sorry about my bluntness tonight guys but I have had one of those days where every second phone call today has regarded home installed system noise and the one common thing in all of them has been a cheap amplifier. :P

Thanks for understanding. :P:);)

Ah, we all have our cranky days! :cheers:

But Fhrx, you do always raise good (and educated) points.

One thing, I'm facing noise trouble too (and yes, it's a cheap amp... but it's an old valve amp so I love it!) - what is the most common noise problem in an R33? In my VL and Patrol I solved any problems I found, now I can't seem to stop the engine noise. It seems to stay at the one volume, changing frequency with rpms.

I generally just turn up the dial a few more notches, but that's really not a solution.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...