Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register

Help with engine noise


Recommended Posts

I just did my first install over the weekend, put in some new splits and an amp to run them... Only problem is that I now have shitty engine noise coming throught the speakers!!! All gear is brand new, Blaupunkt splits and a little 2ch Jaycar Response amp running the splits, new RCA's and speaker wire. Pioneer DEH-P700R head unit. Blaupunkt 12" sub is going in later, when I can figure out how to tie it down :rofl:

I'm not sure if I've set this up properly, but here's how it is;

From the head unit, I've got the remote amp turn on wire (blue one) running down the driver side of the car.

All 3 RCA cables (front, rear, sub) are taped together and also taped onto the speaker wire for the splits. This is running down the passenger side of the car, under carpet/rear seat, passed the battery and into the amp, which is located directly under rear driver's side speaker.

As this was a DIY and learn process for me, I'm pretty sure I stuffed up somewhere...

Should I have the speaker and RCA's going through the driver's side, so it doesn't pass the battery?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks guys,


Link to comment
Share on other sites

and make sure they dont meet at the end near ur amp for as much as possible (:

if u cant help it, wrap some electrical tape around the RCA's for a bit more insulation where they connect to the amp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wouldn't recommend running your RCAs down the drivers side, that's where the factory loom is for all the rear stuff (lights, HICAS, etc.). I installed mine the other day, was getting late so I ran them down the drivers side with everything else - bad mistake.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the word up cooks! So the way I've run the cables should be OK then? I can't see where the RCA's and power wires cross... The RCA's and speaker wire run passed the battery though, has anyone got any pix or can explain how the wire should be setup?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

not sure on skylines but pretty much have ur remote wire and constante on your driver side take of ur kick and door seals and the back seat and run them down the side on the floor under the carpet do the same with the rca's speaker wire on the opposite side of the car if thats not workin then try runnin your rca's down the centre of the car its easy to do on a silvia dunno about a skyline as silvias come undone easly

what RCA's are u using ? if there just your normal once's then that could be the problem but try runnin them down the centre if not luck get some better sheilded RCA's like i said b4 i can sell u mine 4 cheap and there new

good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Booster, yep already done that... Still having problems guys, I moved the amp to a different spot and still no good, tried different RCA leads as well. I even tried running the RCA's from the head unit, out the window, around the car, into the boot and wired to amp - still no good... Also re-rigged up power cable and ground cable location... The power wire is still running down the middle of the car (from head unit, passed gear stick, under console, under back seat and into boot.

Anyone got any other suggestions?

I might hook up my rear speakers to the amp and see if I still get engine noise, at least then I can elimate the problem being the front speaker wires...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Right oh guys, time to bite the bullet and throw the physics lessons out the window. I'm calling on 15 years of experience as an installer to answer this one...

I have done enough installs (many of which have been Skylines) now that I can confidently add this too the discussion:

1. I have never had any kind of interferance from a remote wires or speaker wires even when they're bundled with the signal cables.

2. You should always run the singal cables perpendicular to power cable when they HAVE to cross.

3. I have installed amps on both sides of Skylines and never had a problem with system noise.

4. Get some DECENT quality RCA's like Streetwires, Stinger etc... ie no Aerpro / Jaycar / Fusion / Schneider stuff - I know this should not make a difference but I said forget physics for a second.

5. Make sure when you bundle up the excess RCA cables you don't coil them into a circular pile - this tends to make them aerials... bundle them in long lengths...

If none of these solve it I'll drive down there from NSW and sort it out for you for free... :P:P

Seriously, sometimes it pays to forget physics and call on experience from real-world experience instead...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh, and there is no polite way to say this so if it's okay with people I'll just come right out and say it; and I mean this with all respect to you guys...

If you start with cheap products like Jaycar, expect problems...

Sorry about my bluntness tonight guys but I have had one of those days where every second phone call today has regarded home installed system noise and the one common thing in all of them has been a cheap amplifier. :P

Thanks for understanding. :P:);)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah, we all have our cranky days! :cheers:

But Fhrx, you do always raise good (and educated) points.

One thing, I'm facing noise trouble too (and yes, it's a cheap amp... but it's an old valve amp so I love it!) - what is the most common noise problem in an R33? In my VL and Patrol I solved any problems I found, now I can't seem to stop the engine noise. It seems to stay at the one volume, changing frequency with rpms.

I generally just turn up the dial a few more notches, but that's really not a solution.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Posts

    • That's somewhat of a mixed message or confabulation of two different things. Point 1. Yes, it is generally a bad idea to tap anything into the FPR connection because when it goes wrong the lean condition is very destructive. No, it doesn't go wrong often, but when it does, it is usually because the ignorance of the failure mode is combined with sufficient general ignorance that the failure becomes more likely through ineptitude. Thus, it is generally easier to simply say "don't do it" than try to have a nuanced discussion. Point 2. The Neo's boost sensor "failure mode" should you tap into its connection and have that connection fail is not severe at all. But this is where the confabulation occurs, because you made it sound like tapping into the FPR on a Neo was not as bad. There wasn't any need to bring the Neo's boost sensor up as it was lacking in relevance, even with its previous mention in this thread. /pedant mode.
    • A few things to consider: Is there a good quality aftermarket replacement arm which already has new bushings but also adjustable camber? Rather than the eccentric bolt? Many years ago I replaced all my bushings front and rear with superpro polyurethane bushings. Sure they've been fine. But the castor isn't adjustable and is slightly out, the camber adjustment bolts aren't the greatest and most secure way of adjusting them. If I were to do them again I'd probably just replace the arms with aftermarket ones. I used a 5 ton press to get everything out. The biggest pain is having a wide selection of metal pipe pieces that are strong enough to press things out with. The rear hub bushings gave me PTSD.
    • It will work when it works, the problem is what happens when it doesn't work. The failure mode of the FPR hose popping off is bad news if you get into boost. If you tee it off the factory boost gauge instead in most RBs it's just a gauge instead of being used in the ECU. Even in the turbo NEOs the failure mode is not as bad as it would otherwise be, the ECU uses MAFs primarily and the MAP sensor is mostly for transient handling and overboost protection.
    • Yes you are right. Even conservatively one for 10 years, it would last 1000 years. The Alibaba suplier offer a sample for US$100. 
  • Create New...