Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Easy, this long;

<----------------------------------------------------------------------------->

:cheers:

I'd say they are worth what you are willing to pay for it.

That's a nice bit of string you got there... How much you want for it?

Yeah thats what i love about sales, someone will pay what they think its worth but they love a bargain. So if it appears to be a bargain they will buy, even if its not :cheers:

Cover postage and ill send it hahaha

I think you'll find that mods (whether japanese, australian or chinese) hold very little of their actual value.

If you are happy to pay that and get a car you like you should be happy with that.

But don't expect the car to hold its value over the next 5 years when you want to on sell it

how long is a piece of string?

You know 'how long'?!!!

I met him in China :) he was pretty skinny :0

OP

as what most have said, condition of the car is paramount. as a seller I wouldn't want a buyer (who has not even seen/driven the car) to beat my price down significantly because that's what he thought the car was worth.

Edited by jaxt

I would think that $90K... not a chance. 650kw requires that virtually every part of the drive line and supporting components be upgraded in some form or another if you want it to last more than 5 minutes (not just the engine).

Anyone spending the $200+k it requires to build a car of this level isnt going to just give it away for $90k. As a general rule the money would have been spent on a car that was in very good condition to begin with. Though running that power level tends to break everything around your "strong" parts as well so you would really want to know what your looking at before buying.

You might get a track spec'd RB26 powered R34 GTR for $90K at the moment, which i'd prefer any day over something setup for drag or top speed...

i dunno... i think 90k is possible... maybe even frequent and easy.

theres a catch tho.

I've seen a number of high powered cars go for low prices, its pretty common, but you know what???

They've all been thrashed, they're going for that price because they're tired, worn and are starting to cost more in maintenance than they're worth.

So yes you can get your 650kw 34 gtr for 90k, you'll then go on to spend the money that you "saved" plus maybe a bit more, reconditioning everything so that it runs for longer than a few months.

Agree with JDM Performance +1

But from a completely different angle ie. a financial one...

If I had $90K spare, I'd seriously be looking at a VS II NUR > further down the track, you get a greater %age of your $$$ back.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...