Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've driven a host of new Aussie performance cars. The turbo ute isn't as controllable as the SV8, although it's line-ball in acceleration and can carry enough kegs of bundy n coke to have you pissed into 2006.

I'd look at the lease deals you can get with SS Commodore Utes. They're very, very good.

  • 3 weeks later...
Guest MFX_R33
Any when trying to drift i typically have a 15-30km/h lower corner entry speed, otherwise all i get is a bit of oversteer on corner exit. That means you are typically doing 60-80km/h on most of these turns...

That is not drift, that is a bit of power oversteer on exit of the corner.

In Drift you are usually going 15-30km/h FASTER than you would normally take the corner, and flick the steering early (feint-o) to get sideways before the corner and continue that all of the way through.

When travelling faster you are on the edge of traction from the start so even if you are slightly understeering on entry, all it takes is a tiny bit of the right foot to get the tail out.

Using this method you can drift in almost any car regaurdless of the power level.

Jeff.

That is not drift, that is a bit of power oversteer on exit of the corner.  

In Drift you are usually going 15-30km/h FASTER than you would normally take the corner, and flick the steering early (feint-o) to get sideways before the corner and continue that all of the way through.

When travelling faster you are on the edge of traction from the start so even if you are slightly understeering on entry, all it takes is a tiny bit of the right foot to get the tail out.

Using this method you can drift in almost any car regaurdless of the power level.

Jeff.

Jeff, your MAD :D Im not brave enough to go into the like of turn 2 at eastern creek at 100km/hr, sure some corners i may feel confident going in too hot and washing off speed thru the corner when the car is punted sideways.

Guest MFX_R33

I haven't driven on EC, so I don't know turn 2, but that is what drift is. Just putting your foot down when you exit a corner is not drift.

You need the high entry speed to get the car side ways before the corner, just look at some of the D1 competitions and you will see what I mean.

Jeff.

Yeh i know what your saying , but your corner speed is still way lower then normal...even if the actual corner entry id higher...the lead up to the corner as you say is higher again

The only way i can drift is to still be braking on turn in so the car steps out, i cant scandanavian flick, nor do i like the idea of using the handbrake....practice makes perfect!

yo what new non import cars are there that look good and drift alright as well

any car thats about upto mid 40s$$ brand new coz i can get good deals on them  

so RWD or AWD any help at all thanks :D

ummmm.... non import car brand new....for ~$45k hmmmm a BMW?? prolly best to try drift one of them.... or the XR6T or and RX8?? but apart from that with that price range for a brand new car that is a NON import your really cutting it fine... :rofl:

Guest MFX_R33

The only BMW that would come close to that price range is a 318i (new they are stll well into the $50k range), and if you have driven one, you will know they don't have enough power to pull the skin off of a toasted marshmallow.

XR6T would be worth looking at.

Jeff.

my mate owns a stock as a rock r31 pintara. he can get that thing sideways. what the **** r u guys talking about?? if the driver has the know how and the balls to flick his machine into a corner, and the suspension can handle it, then u can do awesome drift in a 1977 carona, or a go-cart even. no shit. maybe u can't really fry the tyres has much as something with more grunt,but all this talk about what is better for drifting is kids drible. mfx r33 is right on the money.

like i say, drift is speed, not power.

That is not drift, that is a bit of power oversteer on exit of the corner.  

In Drift you are usually going 15-30km/h FASTER than you would normally take the corner, and flick the steering early (feint-o) to get sideways before the corner and continue that all of the way through.

When travelling faster you are on the edge of traction from the start so even if you are slightly understeering on entry, all it takes is a tiny bit of the right foot to get the tail out.

Using this method you can drift in almost any car regaurdless of the power level.

Jeff.

SV8, ba xr6 turbo? both excellent cars for average performance and stylish power oversteer but way to fragile for real drift. 1. the sv8 has weakish diff, 2. handbrake does not like repeated abuse, 3. powersteer cooks itself crazy. XR6 ute has weak box, same diff dramas but slightly better hbrake setup. BOTH WEIGH way to much and therefore stress all their componentry to much for reliable drift. it is all well and good to say look at the touring cars but, these cars have fabricted or modified everything. From suspension parts and geometry to brakes and body bracing all of which is specialised considering the small market and well beyond the average punters wallet, especially after buying the car new.

Recent trips to japan had me watching late model chasers and verossa's and even some 350z's cutting serious drift with easy to get over the shelf parts.

Chasers are near new, compliance is avail and parts are aplenty (ex-japan, no stress) MAX 35k for car, 1.9k for sus, 2k for cooler kit, 1k for jap exhuast, 1.5k for 1.5 or 2way mech diff, 2hunge for decent brake pads and you have a slick practical (shopping and shite) drifter with around 240rwkw. ALL FOR WELL UNDER 50k.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...