Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 148
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I have always liked the R33's, and i love that rounded fat rear end :(

I'll end up buying an R33 GTR V-Spec as I'd rather keep it relatively in my budget, and I don't want to have any finance owing.

From what I have heard, this midnight purple 33 GTR V-Spec is in immaculate condition inside + out, just waiting to see & drive it on Saturday/Sunday :huh:

There are 2 dealers here Brisbane thats got them in midnight purple.

Imperial Auto (where I get mine from)

http://imperialauto.com.au/

http://imperialauto.com.au/modules/content...id=90&type=

**with defi(s) and its a series 3!!

Motorman (very well recommended by a lot of people)

http://www.motorman.com.au/search.php

http://ucn.dealernet.com.au/detail.php?ses...p;ucnid=3904795

**with Ohlins... pretty tasty piece of coilovers.

Oh damn that black Series 3 is so hot. As too is the midnight purple one!

This is making me change my mind to import one from the Eastern states.

The engine bay in that midnight purple S3 GTR looks bloody clean!

Hey Brandon, want to check out the black S3 GTR for me this weekend :cool:

Already did with another friend of mine. Looks good with just normal wearing on wheel and the lights a bit yellowish (pretty normal and I think theres a fix to this on the forum). I'm pretty sure you can get it down to 25 or 26k easily if you wanna fly over and truck it back if you cant find anything in WA. Good weekend break too. I'm sure you'll end up with 1 or the other unless you want something with more work done.

Which one would you say is in better condition?

I emailed both the dealers and asked them email me some high-res photos of both cars inside+out, engine bay and under the car.

I need to sell my farking car asap.

The dealer selling the black Series 3 emailed me more photos of the car today in sunlight. Wow it is noice!

I'm thinking about going over there, checking it out and trucking it back!

awesome, it looks great with the projector xenons, I need to find some somewhere

theres really not much difference between series 1,2 and 3. If you want bang for buck better off with a series 1.

The main difference (visually) is the projectors which is worth a fair bit. I believe the series 3 got better synchro and maybe some other upgrades too comparing to the earlier series.

The dealer selling the black Series 3 emailed me more photos of the car today in sunlight. Wow it is noice!

I'm thinking about going over there, checking it out and trucking it back!

Cool man. Let me know if you're coming. I might come along if I'm on my RDO from the mines. Brent's a nice guy.

Will let you know, prob be in a week/two.

Cheers mate, will really appreciate it!

Off to the Queens now to sink some pints :)

Cool. 2 weeks is good since I'll be flying back on the 13th for the weekend. PM if you need a hand with organizing inpection too. Dan from ERD (SAU Qld Sponsor too) can do it for you. He just checked a NUR for 1 of my mate and found oil issue. Lucky he noticed the pressure when checking because my friend told me the car ran well. But when Dan checked, the oil had high content of sulphur and copper.

Had a look at this R33 GTR this evening.

The car seems to be in immaculate condition and has been garaged all it's life. Easiest way to tell, all the rubbers around the front + rear windscreens are in tact, the paint is absolutely perfect and that midnight purple colour is a dream. The engine bay looks completely standard and untouched. Unfortunately i couldn't drive it as the owner has just returned from a 5week holiday in europe with his wife, so I will return sometime during the week to check it out and drive it.

I told the owner that if I sell my car I will most probably give him a fairly large deposit ($3-$5K) as I don't want to bring home a GTR till uni finishes in another 4-5 weeks. The owner said he is happy to hold the car for me as long as a i pay a deposit.

So, will return soon to drive it and check it out under the sun, but so far all looks good. The owner is 55years old and he brought it from an older owner in South Australia a few years back.

Gotta get my assignments done now, no sleep tonight =\

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
×
×
  • Create New...