Jump to content
SAU Community

Federal Tyres Splitting!

grygtr
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted
ive had two sets now, both have done this. wore the first set down past the tread wear, no problems.

Sounds like its nearly guaranteed if you had two sets do it.

How many kms did you get out of each? Track or street?

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

not exactly guaranteed....I've bought 2 sets of these and used for 6-18 months of road and track use with no splitting. So on the same logic you could say it is guaranteed not to happen :)

has anyone had an actual failure?

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted
not exactly guaranteed....I've bought 2 sets of these and used for 6-18 months of road and track use with no splitting. So on the same logic you could say it is guaranteed not to happen :)

has anyone had an actual failure?

Haha true!!! How good is internet logic!! Im not that fussed or I wouldnt have ordered them anyhow.

I got them fitted last Thursday but have only had a chance to test them out in the wet, so not much of a test.. although they were confidence inspiring and surprisingly grippy in the wet.

Looking forward to some good weather so I can try them out properly.

Going from r comps my car now feels like a luxury barge with these tyres.

ssxRicho Grand Master

ssxRicho

Posted
Posted

i got approx 20 track days out of the 595RS, plus driving to and from the track, cruise days, DECA etc. ~ 6-7,000km over 6 months

they grip well down to the wear indicators, then start to squeal and slide.

went to ku36 and did ~8 track days in 3-4 months, they are down to the wear indicators and have very little grip.

back on 595RSR now, love em. ~6 track days so far, they are wearing well. the grip is the wet and dry is fantastic.

and as i said all four have the 'line' in them this time around.

i do find the RS and RSR are not as progressive as the ku36 tho, when the federals loose grip they really let go. the ku36 seem

to give you a bit more of an indication.

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted
i got approx 20 track days out of the 595RS, plus driving to and from the track, cruise days, DECA etc. ~ 6-7,000km over 6 months

they grip well down to the wear indicators, then start to squeal and slide.

went to ku36 and did ~8 track days in 3-4 months, they are down to the wear indicators and have very little grip.

back on 595RSR now, love em. ~6 track days so far, they are wearing well. the grip is the wet and dry is fantastic.

and as i said all four have the 'line' in them this time around.

i do find the RS and RSR are not as progressive as the ku36 tho, when the federals loose grip they really let go. the ku36 seem

to give you a bit more of an indication.

Thanks for the feeback! I plan on using them for street use only. Bit of a worry about them being relatively less progressive, I guess ill find out for myself soon enough.

Out of the KU-36 or RSR which do you prefer and can you please give some feedback about other differences between the two?

  • 8 months later...
Interloper Veteran

Interloper

Posted
Posted

old thread, but i'll add my 5c.

I've had this happen on a set of Hankook's and they didn't get much more than a quick burnout or 2. Nothing to worry about as long as the gap stays about that size and doesn't open up any more.

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

IMO those tyres are unroadworthy, and therefore you qualify for full replacement. The Fair Trading laws are strong and clear. Force them to replace the tyres, as you say its a safety issue.

I've used these for a couple of years on my stagea (circuit and road), and 350z (circuit, motorkhana skids and road) without any problems. might be a bad batch, might be bad luck...either way I would not accept anything but replacement or refund.

I had splits in 2x Nankangs on a Prelude. > Approached Blair's Tyres who are official agents in Oz > One phone call approved an immediate replacement.

Reason:- Even though these Nankangs were rated for high speed, the company felt that expansion under heat oscillating with contraction made the tyre unroadworthy.

Footnote:- Yes they're crummy tyres in the wet, but I applaud their customer service!

Ziller Rising Star

Ziller

Posted
Posted

I have to replace my RE55s, just street driven no trackwork or hard driving, they've done around 15,000kms in over 3 years and still looking good.

It's really weird how they have gone in recent times with splits around the inside radius on all 4 tyres.

DAS KAMU Veteran

DAS KAMU

Posted
Posted

Well i have spoken to Miles at Federal today and asked if they can inspect the tyres on the car?

he said he will send me to tyres and more in south Brisbane (behind my work :) which is good)

Spoke to John (Really cool guy) at Tyres and more he inspected them called Miles at Federal tyres and I get new tyres tomorrow at lunch

The faulty tyres will be sent to federal in Brisbane for assessment by them

It’s not often I get a positive in these kinds of situations

  • 4 years later...
GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

Bit of a thread bump but this was my experience with the 595 Rsr's.

Initially I was happy with the grip and that my understeer issue disappeared but... now.

Front tyres have eggs and don't roll in a straight line.

Left rear shows the tread having ripped away from the tyre, showing the steel belt inside. The belt has torn and there is nasty spikes of metal poking out. It has started to crack around the outside as well.

The seam/overlap join is visible on all tyres. Not exactly confidence building given that the tread is peeling away too.

My suspension guy says this is pretty common with federals and has seen it a bit recently in motorsport. But these tyres would have only seen over 200km/h on the dyno and have never had track time.

They have about 8000km on them. The mould air-release hairs are still on all the tyres. The rest of the time I am mostly stuck in 80km/h traffic with the occasional burst of acceleration.

Hope to swap these for some 4wd tyres instead from the local Federal dealer, and then off-load them to someone else.

Switching to Nitto's for the GTR.

post-26553-0-77651900-1449009603_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done.  
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • GTSBoy
      R34 manual conversion speed signal wire finding, need help

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
×
×
  • Create New...