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I've been considering something like this for a while now...

Go ghetto :)

Swing past bunnings and grab a 12v electronic irrigation solenoid... put it in the plumb-back line, and you're done. When the valve is shut, you'll get flutter as it's blocked, when open you'll get the sneeze.

This sounds like the simplest and most effective idea

Cam,

Not so sure what are doing agrees with my position on riceness....

But because you seem to know a bit about what you are doing, I will give you a hint regarding the resistor...

Calculating the resistance is only part of the equation...You also need to work out what wattage resistor is req'd to dissipate the heat... If you get this wrong you will get smoke then a pop...

Hint is as follows... P=VxI sub in V=IxR get P=IxIxR or P=I^2 x R

In 10 Ohm, the largest resistor I have seen is 10watt... But if you put 2x 20 Ohm 10 watt resistors in parallel you get 10 Ohm 20watt etc etc...

you want something like an LPG solenoid that has a simple open/closed setup, which is basically what manual dual stage boost controllers use between the 2 adjusters. then to make sure the bov stays shut all you have to do is have the solenoid open, floor it, once you have full boost close the solenoid and you will have 10psi holding the bov shut just like if you had the bov hooked up normally, and then you are free to enjoy the dose and extra lag as much as you like.

Not so sure what are doing agrees with my position on riceness....

Yeah i know its pretty ricey but... I guess I've got nothing to say to that.

This is more of an assignment for my electrical engineering unit.

Plus I enjoy the old flutter.

I'm pretty sure this could be done quite easily without the use of any electronics. Just put a t-piece in the vacuum line. Then run a vacuum line coming from the spare outlet on the t-piece into the cabin of the car and on the end of that hose put a normal bleed valve on it. Block the other end of the bleed valve up leaving the third bleeder outlet open. Then you can manually open and close the bleed valve to give you the desired affect.

I had to do something similar back in the uk on a small 4 cylinder turbocharged car in order to get the car to idle properly with an atmo bov.

it would remove the vaccum from the bov as it will just suck in air rather than creating a vuccum and open the bov. however using a bleeder valve won't really allow enough air through to stop the vaccum opening the bov. and the cost of buying a second bleeder valve wouldn't be much different to the solenoid setup and then all you have to do is flick a switch and not sit there winding the valve.

Just to make sure I understand it.

Vacuum line that goes from plenum to BOV has a T-piece in it. From this T-piece a vacuum line goes into the cabin and boost tee is connected to it. The other side of the boost tee is blocked up.

So in this theory when the boost Tee is closed, the BOV operates normally.

The part I don't understand is when the boost tee is open, it is creating a boost leak.

Am I missing something?

when the boost tee is opened yes it will create a boost leak, but this won't really affect the bov much. however it will also create a vaccum leak so that the bov sees less vaccum and doesn't open. this is pretty much exactly the same principle as the stock boost solenoid uses to raise the boost by 2psi, or in a very similar way to how a wastegate controls the boost level by redirecting exhaust flow around the exhaust wheel of the turbo

Hey guys just got an idea I want to share with ya'll...

I've got a GFB Hybrid BOV on my X-Trail and it has a plumb-back configuration.

The idea is to somehow make a switch/circuit to activate the BOV or not.

So when the switch is at 'off' the BOV acts like there's no Vacuum line attached to it, and the turbo flutters its head off, then when its 'on', the BOV acts normal.

You're approaching this backwards :D

Block off the outlet of the BOV for flutter, open it for sneeze. Use one of those electric butterflies to do it...

Cheers,

SW

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