Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i started to notice recently when i drive flat out and at high revs the car stuttered/hesitated a little i thought it was the sparks so i change the shitty ones that were in there to nice new NGK iridiums :/ it didnt fix it per say but the problems changed now it feels like im hitting the rev limiter at 4-4.5K for a moment then goes fine again, but i havent been able to get on the freeway to really give it a go yet. Im thinking it might be the packs but i wanted to get some input before i blow a wad on splitfires, also could it be the fuel pump? Maybe ill change the fuel filter and see how that goes first

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318677-stutteringhesitant-at-high-revs/
Share on other sites

coilpacks.

easy way to check is take out all coilpacks and give them a good clean. look carefully for hairline crack. usually looks like white powdery cracks. if you see then that means your coilpacks are gone. if you can do a DIY repair on them with some clean silicone sealant.

i did that to my R34 and it handled 240rwkw daily for over a year and still going strong.

coilpacks.

easy way to check is take out all coilpacks and give them a good clean. look carefully for hairline crack. usually looks like white powdery cracks. if you see then that means your coilpacks are gone. if you can do a DIY repair on them with some clean silicone sealant.

i did that to my R34 and it handled 240rwkw daily for over a year and still going strong.

Hmmm that might make sense, I noticed on the 4th sparky that it was the only one covered in a small amount of white powder, I was wondering what it was but I was in a bit of a rush to get them back in so I didn't take much notice. Do you think that's the problem?....splitfires time?

well it could be that or anything really. thats just the first and easiest thing to check. and if faulty cheapest to fix. try the DIY method out first or borrow somones coil packs. then if that fixes the problem you can make you mind if you should get splitfires or not.

well it could be that or anything really. thats just the first and easiest thing to check. and if faulty cheapest to fix. try the DIY method out first or borrow somones coil packs. then if that fixes the problem you can make you mind if you should get splitfires or not.

Just did the whole tape DYI fix, not sure, it seems like it reduced the symptom but I'm also thinking it could be placebo effect. I didn't see any cracks or anything on my packs though....

take it off and clean it. Get the MAF sensor cleaner from Bursons etc. it works a treat!

When you say you did the Tape DIY fix, wht did you tape? If it was the coils themselves then maybe do the whole loom as well, I did the loom on mine and it fixed all stuttering issues I had, after cleaning the MAF's and doing the solder joints on them too. Oh and make sure your spark plugs are gapped down to .8mm

take it off and clean it. Get the MAF sensor cleaner from Bursons etc. it works a treat!

When you say you did the Tape DIY fix, wht did you tape? If it was the coils themselves then maybe do the whole loom as well, I did the loom on mine and it fixed all stuttering issues I had, after cleaning the MAF's and doing the solder joints on them too. Oh and make sure your spark plugs are gapped down to .8mm

mmm might have to have a look into that, I only taped up the actual packs and not the rubber part if thats what you mean. I was thinking about the gap. I thought it was 1.1 for stock boost?

nooo not the packs themselves, you don't need to tape them up. Pull the loom off (the wires with all the plugs) and check it for any splits, (mine had several and could see bare wire on a couple) then tape the whole thing up with some decent electrical tape (nitto FTW) then you should be right, if that's your problem

nooo not the packs themselves, you don't need to tape them up. Pull the loom off (the wires with all the plugs) and check it for any splits, (mine had several and could see bare wire on a couple) then tape the whole thing up with some decent electrical tape (nitto FTW) then you should be right, if that's your problem

I just followed this guide

yes, but dit you have any cracks in the epoxy or not? If no then you wasted your time. Try doing the loom as well, you'll probably find it has a split somewhere, otherwise I rekon it's dry solder joints in the MAF Sensor. Fix it by resoldering the joints Tutorial Here

As far as I know James is still running the standard boost solenoid so boost cut is out. I still place my bet on coilpacks.

Kirs is right standard boost :(, gonna order new splitfires I think

Have you checked your Loom and done the MAF joint with fresh solder yet? That's a LOT cheaper than new Splitfires. If it's not your coils then when you get your new ones you will have the same problem.

The above 2 fixes will take bugger all time to do and will cost you all of $5 for tape and solder a little more if you need to buy a soldering iron too but still a lot less than the Splitfires will sting you :)

I had this problem after a quick squirt on the track.

Checked everything, sparks, coils, intercooler piping etc.

Turned out to be the Vac hose on the Fuel Pressure Regulator, felt kinda stupid once I noticed the little hose dangling.

Chances are yours isn't this, but yeah.

Good luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
    • thanks GTSboy. My confusion at the moment is i am trying to locate the ignition, ECU battery power and the ECU negative The closest thing i can find is the for the S15 on Page 8 of the Wiring Specialties web page https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9F33_M_GgENQnZ6STMxVmVNd1E/view?resourcekey=0-eZ4nNRwRoqa1qvKlWWHm8A I cannot find the same diagram for the R33 RB25DET Series 2 dash plug pin out.... Do you know what the Pins? or know where i can find the same pinout diagram for the RB dash plug? Thanks for the advice on the box... i like a 6 speed so might be on the lookout or the box now.. a topic of discussion for another post...
    • Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
×
×
  • Create New...