Jump to content
SAU Community

I detailed my engine bay ...

predator

By predator,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
  • Author
Posted

um, hoses are a mixture..Some are silicon (the best stuff), which isn't cheap. The other is just some stuff that was available in red. Its water hose, which means its even stronger than needed for vacuum hoses.

All the hoses i got in melb at a place called Purple Pig (specialising in hoses). Not sure whether they have it up here.

I think i remember seeing some silicon hose kits in Autobahn for about $40. Another option.

Whats involved in doing the cam covers/rocker cover? how many time do u need to sand and polish it to come out nice?

You have to take them off. That involves getting the cover off, and then under there is the screws for the other sides. Take them off, put them on newspaper and start going. You'll need some heavy wet and dry sandpaper to start off with (120 grade or so) and then gradually move to finer and finer stuff (1000) to get the really shiny finish. Autosol is a metal polishing cream which also helps inbetween sands (autobahn, supercheap, kmart, etc).

You can also take it to a metal polishing place, that can do it for you, and probably give better results than by hand.

Bobjones Mentor

Bobjones

Posted
Posted

You could always try Tony Powell plumbing supplies at Geebung, he usually has alot of good plumbing stuff and other pipes...

Also on the notion of polishing...

I did the rocker cover on my SR20DE, all you need is some 600 sand paper, then go 800, 1000, 1200 wet and dry and wet is the best option, then get a polishing kit from Bunnings that attaches to a drill ($30) and some rags and of course wax and grease remover and finally some metal polish...brasso everyone seems to have here...

Took a while cause I was drinking...but came up better than a mate who paid $120 to get his done "professionally"

Looking at doing the line's covers one day...

  • 1 month later...
predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Rocker Covers aren't so easy to get off. If you have changed the spark plugs before you'll probably know most of the stuff you need to get off to get to them. Its mainly just getting the intake piping and things like that out of the way.

You can probably see the outside screws. The inside screws are in the plastic cover. Once you undo them all they just lift off. I don't believe you need a torque wrench for the cam covers to put back on - i definitely didn't use one. You shouldn't have to replace the rocker cover gaskets unless you somehow damage them while removing the cover.

So really its just a disassembly process. It took me I guess 30-40 mins to get them off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...