Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Took some photos of the turbos while they were both out of the car

The GCG internalls are much bigger than stock

Bigger front and rear wheels

Also noticed a stamp on rear housing of gcg which says 7. The stock 33 rear housing has a 2 stamped on it.

Gettin it tuned soon, chasing 250kw with good response.

post-68689-1272877792_thumb.jpg

post-68689-1272877901_thumb.jpg

post-68689-1272877982_thumb.jpg

i need to get the turbo tuned to the power fc.

My power fc is tuned to stock r33 turbo so im only running the gcg on 7psi untill it gets tuned.

i have noticed that the turbo comes on later than stock but pulls harder to 7000rpm and more. It feels alot quicker than the stock r33 turbo on 7psi and its not even tuned to suit

im hoping that with a good pfc tune and greedy boost controler we can get it to boost quicker and pull hard to red line.

yeah an interesting point that

i wonder if

a) its the a/r housing size that makes it feel sluggish near 6krpm (stock GTST turbo)

or

b) if its the snout size / exhaust wheel that does that

I'm sure its a bit of both Paul lets face it the standard turbo is tiny, you can flare out the exhaust housing behind where the turbine sits as mine has been done, as long as you can take off the exhaust housing without damaging the ceramic turbine.

looks very similar to mine, gets on boost by 3500 and pulls hard to redline, a bit laggy at the bottom but not to bad. best i got out of it was 350rwhp @ 15psi. i opened out the wastegate hole till there was about 2mm seat on the flap just to make sure i got the best flow

i note the exhaust wheel and snout is heaps bigger but essentially the same A/R housing is retained - is it not ?

how does this perform around 6000/7000 rpm?

Here's my Stagea with a Nismo SMIC. Later made 245AWKW with a fmic and new tune. Bit more left - GCG claimed 450hp: (see post #558):

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...html&st=540

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...