Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,

I would like to invite any SAU Members to a GT Car Club Dyno Day on the Saturday 28th Feb 2004 @ STI Docklands (Victoria)

Cost

$45/Car (Payment required by 7th Feb)

Location

Subaru Interactive @ Docklands

99 Lorimer St

Docklands VIC 3008

Time

To be announced but most likely early morning.

4WD Dyno: YES

Please email me if you have any questions.

Hope to meet you all in future SAU Events

Regards

Brandon

GT Car Club

[email protected]

http://www.gtcarclub.com

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31942-invite-28th-feb-2004-dyno-day/
Share on other sites

28th hey... i could well be there actually.

This will be only 1-2 weeks after the car is running (and i get the license back)

Is this stricly dyno runs only or can time be done for tuning... i would provide my own tuner if this was the case :P

28th hey... i could well be there actually.

This will be only 1-2 weeks after the car is running (and i get the license back)

Is this stricly dyno runs only or can time be done for tuning... i would provide my own tuner if this was the case :P

Sorry strictly Dyno Run. As far as I know Vin Macaro the STI Service Manager will be doing all the Dyno Runs.

What kind of 4wd dyno is it?

:)

probably the sort that has 4 rollers on it :P

As for tuning... that's ok.

As long as they expect a few higher powered cars and can tie them down properly then i'll confirm in 2-3 weeks.

I nearly came off the dyno at Auto salon thats all... got me a tad scared when she nearly skated off. :headspin:

:P

probably the sort that has 4 rollers on it   :P  

As for tuning... that's ok.  

As long as they expect a few higher powered cars and can tie them down properly then i'll confirm in 2-3 weeks.

I nearly came off the dyno at Auto salon thats all... got me a tad scared when she nearly skated off.  :headspin:

We will do our best to weigh your car down. ;)

It's just that different dynos give different readings ie. BMT.

So people might want to know, if they have previously dynoed elsewhere.

I know what you mean. One dyno said I had 240kws @ wheels and another said 200kws @ wheels .. I'll pretend the 240kws is the accurate one but I think its the other.

I believe STI's dyno is fairly new and caliberated frequently.

if the tie downs r gonna be done properly u might find ill join the sau squad

also does anyone wanna sit in the boot? lol

I have confirmation that they will Tie down your car properly. :)

plus the STI Dyno is caliberated frequently so it is accurate.

AHHAHA!

the competition is RUNNING HOT!

just looking... 28th of feb, god i hope the car is done by then! :D

Is it possible for me and INASNT*cough*cheapskate*cough* to have a run one after the other???

Even though i know he'll cheat and use racing fuel and shit :upurs:

AHHAHA!

the competition is RUNNING HOT!

just looking... 28th of feb, god i hope the car is done by then!  :(

Is it possible for me and INASNT*cough*cheapskate*cough* to have a run one after the other???

Even though i know he'll cheat and use racing fuel and shit  :upurs:

Y exactly r u calling me a cheapskate??? Because i am not spending all my $$ on internals but rather on a house?? its called thinking for the future :D

If i cross my fingers hard enough it will be getting the tune at racepace on friday.

I will run some C16 just to piss u off

Y exactly r u calling me a cheapskate??? Because i am not spending all my $$ on internals but rather on a house?? its called thinking for the future  :cheers:  

I will run some C16 just to piss u off

im just stirring your ass about the whole cheap thing... AND THE cheap tricks like C16... they are expected from the like of you

:D;);)



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...