Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm about to make a one piece tailshaft for a 32 gtst with a gtr box (converted to rwd) and std 32 gtst diff that's making 500rwhp.

The GTR flange uses 75mm OD pipe( where its welded), while the 32 diff flange uses 65mm OD pipe (where it's welded).

What diameter pipe is best suited? any bigger than 3" pipe would have clearance issues.

How thick does the pipe have to be for this kind of power?

And whats the best method of stepping down the diameter of the pipe to suit the smaller R32 gtst diff flange?

A pic explains it clearer, currently using a shortened RB20 tailshaft.

th_tailshaft-shorten2.jpg

th_tailshaft-shorten1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319526-one-piece-tailshaft/
Share on other sites

^^ 2 pieces are generally smoother driving.

don't try and make a tailshaft yourself. people who do will charge like a wounded bull but if the balance isn't perfect then you're in for trouble. tailshaft turns at 4 x wheel speed (roughly).

Have a custom 3" Gibson single piece with extra heavy duty uni's in my 31. Standard 4.11 Auto diff, RB20DET with a 25 box. Havnt looked back, after killing 2 sets of uni's and centre bearing.

Get one made up for you. Cant remember how much it was, but its definately worth it.

Also had clearance issues once we dumped it. Had the chassis rails 80mm off the ground, & the driveshaft was eating the handbrake cable bracket. Had to raise the car up about 40-50mm. Still chews into the bracket occasionally with extra passanger weight..

Easy, slide the 65mm shaft into the 75mm shaft, simply find what gauge sheet steel you need to wrap around the 65mm so its a snug fit. Make sure the unis line up as factory (if it has unis) bead of weld and you are done. Make sure the 75mm shaft is cut to the right length so the weld is at the flange. then get it balanced by a shop.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...