Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Took delivery of my Exedy Heavy Heavy Duty Button clutch today. Hopefully the thing will allow me lots of fun with zero slip.

Anyhow I noticed the pucks are quite thin on their 'meat'. Not alot of room for wear (especially considering the rivets will start hitting well before the whole button is worn down)

I was wondering whether other brands of button clutches have thicker pucks.

Anyway, I took some picks to show how thin the material is, for those who might be interested.

I used the match stick as a reference, it was spare of the moment ok :cool:

1273329146.jpg

1273295267.jpg

1273301147.jpg

Edited by Granthem
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319734-exedy-5-puck-button/
Share on other sites

Had one of these in my car a while ago & although the friction material is very thin, it holds up ok.

Lasted 2 or 3 years in my car, thrashing the date out of it & only failed in the end because the pivot broke, the clutch fork moved & I tried to drive with no clutch... Very easy to drive with too. Overall nice clutch I think.

Due to the fact that you shouldn't slip it taking off (you'll get used to it...) it shouldn't wear a lot which I suppose is how you get away with such a thin lining. Haven't seen any other similar clutches to compare thickness

Had one of these in my car a while ago & although the friction material is very thin, it holds up ok.

Lasted 2 or 3 years in my car, thrashing the date out of it & only failed in the end because the pivot broke, the clutch fork moved & I tried to drive with no clutch... Very easy to drive with too. Overall nice clutch I think.

Due to the fact that you shouldn't slip it taking off (you'll get used to it...) it shouldn't wear a lot which I suppose is how you get away with such a thin lining. Haven't seen any other similar clutches to compare thickness

Yeht thats what I expected. The way its meant to be used I guess there isnt much meat needed. I was suprised tho, I expected a little more beef on the pucks. I was just wondering if any of the Xtreme clutches for example have more meat on the pucks.

I also bought a Nismo Pivot too... so that mine doesnt snap like yours, fingers crossed!

Grant is your part number nsk-7056HHDB? i have just had one of these installed last week.. and sorry to hijack your thread, but how the hell do you drive these things?!

are these button types definitely the ones you aren't meant to slip/ride? perhaps i should have gone cushioned button :)

Hey Ric,

Yeh thats the model! My old rooted clutch you see above was a cushioned button. It served its purpose well, I think 5 years of driving it took before it wore down like that. The killer for it was limiter launching at the drags on semi slicks.

As for the new button, you will get used to it! My mate has a twin plate nismo clutch and he can use it like a normal clutch, you wouldnt even know. Give it a few weeks, you will adapt to the severity of it.

Definitely dont slip or ride it. Basically learn the revs that it seems to engage with best, and you should be fine. You just cant get lazy with them... because they will snap your neck off if you stuff it up lol!

How much power does your car have? If it is a near standard 33 gtst, the cushioned button would have probably been a better option :)

yeah i'm hoping i get used to it.. the heavy pedal (my old one was feather light) already feels normal

car will soon be around 250rwkw, i'm planning to take it to the drags a bit so i think i've made the right choice as far as thrashability is concerned

Definitely get the Nismo pivot, I've snapped a pivot but it wasn't as bad as the guy above, I was able to drive my car to the workshop by rev matching (it snapped at like 3am cruising home after some heavy abuse on a cruise) and didn't f**k the clutch or slave cylinder.

Well I got mine back yesterday. Its got some bite!

However, I dont think its too bad. I find blip to 2500-3000rpm and quick drop seems to get it off the line ok.

are you using the stock flywheel and did you need to get it machined or anything to clean it up?

I'm about to make a decision between the exedy HD Button like you have and a Exedy Racing Clutch Stage 1 sports ceramic, which is only $270 more....

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ex...23334-p-82.html

are you using the stock flywheel and did you need to get it machined or anything to clean it up?

I'm about to make a decision between the exedy HD Button like you have and a Exedy Racing Clutch Stage 1 sports ceramic, which is only $270 more....

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ex...23334-p-82.html

Im using a cusco chrome moly flywheel. It needed to be machined yes.

it's growing on me.. but i'm just a bit worried i'm riding it too much, even though i always make a conscious effort to get off it asap. is minimal slip ok or do i need to rev it up and dump every single time?

Yeh I know what you mean. Mine engages so quickly I dont think there is any chance of riding it really. It goes from nothing to grip in .0001 of a second. At the moment, im trying to get a hint of wheel spin off the line, therefore I know its engaging quickly. My tires dont "chirp", its more just small scrape of the rear wheels and Im off. '

Thats how I am making sure its not being 'ridden' on take off.

Should have gone for the 3 Puk Sports Ceramic for a tad more, there's more friction material and no rivots to worry aboyut.

I ended up getting the Sports Ceramic for a GTS-t using a R32 GT-R Push type pressure plate (rated at 1.1 tonnes).. and upgraded to a Nismo Big Bore Slave...

Car drives pretty easy

Just a small update... the clutch is well and truely worn in now. A few hard launches, hard changes etc.

I dont know if im getting used to it, or whether its just bedded in now, but its very easy to drive with. In fact, it hardly seems like a button at all.

Here's to hopeing its just me getting used to it... and not already losing its bite!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...