Jump to content
SAU Community

Abs Removal. How To!?

RBceffy25
 Share

Recommended Posts

RBceffy25 Rising Star

RBceffy25

Posted
Posted

Heya!

I am about to do an R33 brake conversion and Ichiba 5-stup upgrade on all four corners of my ABS equipped Cefiro.

I would prefer to remove the whole ABS system to reduce weight, increase engine bay space and just generally tidy up excessive line etc.

What is the correct way to do this?

Or do I just leave it alone all together?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319753-abs-removal-how-to/
Share on other sites
Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
Posted

Even for track use, ABS can be very helpful, and its easy to disable (fuse).

If you must remove it, pull the globe from the dash, disconnect the loom under the rear shelf and remove the ABS computer, remove all the brake lines, ABS hub, sensors, etc.

Keep in mind the hard lines on Cefiro are Cefiro only...as they're a mix of using S13 master cylinder (which will also need to be replaced) running along an R32 firewall. Making your own solid brake lines isnt hard, if you're doing the R33 conversion you'll need to make up your own flexible brake hoses too (or dodgey modify the banjo bolt), so just do them all in one hit, but yeah, I reckon keep it...more con's than pro's if you remove it.

RBceffy25 Rising Star

RBceffy25

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Even for track use, ABS can be very helpful, and its easy to disable (fuse).

If you must remove it, pull the globe from the dash, disconnect the loom under the rear shelf and remove the ABS computer, remove all the brake lines, ABS hub, sensors, etc.

Keep in mind the hard lines on Cefiro are Cefiro only...as they're a mix of using S13 master cylinder (which will also need to be replaced) running along an R32 firewall. Making your own solid brake lines isnt hard, if you're doing the R33 conversion you'll need to make up your own flexible brake hoses too (or dodgey modify the banjo bolt), so just do them all in one hit, but yeah, I reckon keep it...more con's than pro's if you remove it.

Do you have it?

Its seems to be a rather shitty system or mybe mine is faulty?

When i hit bumps on the road while braking the ABS has a tendency to kick in and then off again making it quite annoying. This happens when under braking and the driven wheel(s) skip off the ground when on a bumpy surface, causing a bit of slip in the diff or something and (i assume) the ABS computer reads this as high speed or hard braking braking and jumps into action when i dont want it to.

I like to be in full control of my cars functions but the ABS seems do have a bit of a mind of its own at times.

I have all the gear to do the conversion including braided lines etc.

I have also just been informed that there may be some legalities involved if i remove this. Is this the case?

If I keep the abs will it work with the hubs and calipers i have?

Or do I need ABS compatible hubs or something?

While on this toppic,

What the difference with the ABS diff? I have been told its longer but will this affect my decision to put a shimmed, 4.11:1 R33 center in it?

Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
Posted

Not sure on legalities, read the Australian Design Rules.

I've yet to give my ABS a work out in the Ceffy but it has been usefull in my 94 J30 Maxima. I can't relate the symptoms you described to any ABS Nissan I've driven, might just be yours? Cefiro's had that supersonic suspension setup from the factory that had (auto) adjustable damper rates...the ABS might be tied in with this.

I've never taken a look at how the ABS sensor at each wheel works...you should be able to use the same knuckle and wheel hub though.

Like I said, you can just pull the ABS fuse if you like, for times when you don't want it interfering if it is doing so, and then put the fuse back in for driving around on the street?

The extra weight isnt that much, and can be a lifesaver in the wet/limited traction situations.

RBceffy25 Rising Star

RBceffy25

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Not sure on legalities, read the Australian Design Rules.

I've yet to give my ABS a work out in the Ceffy but it has been usefull in my 94 J30 Maxima. I can't relate the symptoms you described to any ABS Nissan I've driven, might just be yours? Cefiro's had that supersonic suspension setup from the factory that had (auto) adjustable damper rates...the ABS might be tied in with this.

I've never taken a look at how the ABS sensor at each wheel works...you should be able to use the same knuckle and wheel hub though.

Like I said, you can just pull the ABS fuse if you like, for times when you don't want it interfering if it is doing so, and then put the fuse back in for driving around on the street?

The extra weight isnt that much, and can be a lifesaver in the wet/limited traction situations.

Sweet as, i think i'll just leave it alone and as you said, take out the fuse if im on track or somthing.

At the end of the day my intention with the ceffy is for a streeter so probably best left as is.

The only other thing that bothers me is that the ABS unit sits right above the turbo/dump and when hard driving is applied i tend to lose a bit of stopping power, i would say, from the brake fluid being overheated. I have a makeshift heatshield in place, which seems to work ok but maybe a more permanent shield is needed if i'm to keep the system.

on a side note

I use tein HA coilovers that came fitted on the car from japan

Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
Posted

Highmount turbo? Either way it's a good point, heat right next to brake fluid is not cool. It's also next to your power steering resevoir as well :blush:

http://www.7tune.com/newtune/justin/cefiro/5.jpg

(more on that drifter, here)

More permanent heatshield and opening an air duct into that corner would help.

If you're making your own solid lines, you could drill some holes into the firewall and run them back in there, under that gutter/drain,

huddy Veteran

huddy

Posted
Posted

yeah nice pic. I was there at setonai circuit with justin and laurence. we were there for msc event. even got a pic with orido as he was there judging...

...anyway back on topic :blush:

my reason for removing initially was because the unit was leaking... brake fluid leak is terrible for paint/metal... still happy it's gone though.

daisu Mentor

daisu

Posted
Posted
Keep in mind the hard lines on Cefiro are Cefiro only...as they're a mix of using S13 master cylinder (which will also need to be replaced) running along an R32 firewall.

S13 master cylinder is the same shape as the R32 master cylinder. Therefore the hard lines should be identical to the R32.

daisu Mentor

daisu

Posted
Posted

Dunno now, but thinking about it the strut towers/wheel arches are going to be the same shape as the S13, so the R32 lines probably wouldn't fit. Not sure how different the firewalls are, but the master cylinders are the same shape (S13/R32).

Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
Posted

Hard lines don't really go by strut towers or wheel arches though.

Firewall (according to parts thread) is same as R32)...they run along the firewall then drop down to the chassis rail and then breach the wheel arch, the rears go down the firewall and run along the inside of the right chassis rail, then seperate when they reach the cradle.

Strut towers are wheel arches are closer together than S13....AWD Cefiro's can probably get away with R32 solid lines, to say the least.

Wonder if anyone has done it ? I need to make some new ones up for mine, was just going to use the old bolts, some tube and get a tube bender.

  • 2 weeks later...
adrnln Proficient

adrnln

Posted
Posted

I have just removed my ABS completely and replace it with R32 brake master and booster and used the line from the front half of a R32 shell a mate was going to throw out.

You need to replace the master cylinder because ABS masater has two line coming out going to the ABS and then the ABS distributes to all four calapers. Non ABS units have three lines coming out, one to front left, one to front right and one to rear for both sides.

R32 solid lines will fit but a few man handling bends will be needed, but they all fit up on the fronts.

The rear all you have the do is get the shortest of the solid lines, undo the line that goes to the rear at the little junction box just under the brake booster and contect it to the brake master.

Bleed as you normally would but a few more time then normal to get all the air out and brakes will be better then ever.

I will try take some pics and get a list of things required for the change out

But see attached pic of a non ABS brake master.

Billy

post-5013-1274855822_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...