Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

thought I'd set up this project page and share the work a friend and me are doing on my car.

car is 33gtst spec2 with rebuilt RB25det engine with all the forged goodies. Did a recent compression test and it was spot on so its given me alot of security for my plans - namely fit Garrett GT3076 turbo top mount and get the best from it all in whichever way I can!!

so the main parts to fit so far to my car will be:

Garrett GT3076R ball bearing turbo

Top mount manifold from Owen Developments

Tial 44mm ext. wgate

Greddy GTR style plenum with Q45 throttle body

so this morning got up, breathed a bit, had breks, missus went pilates, I started whipping a few basic bits off the car - filter, afm, piping to turbo and things like that. Realised I were gonna get a bit stuck with various bits so I gave Ian a shout at about half 10, picked him up and he came over to gimme a hand removing the manifold and wotnot. Actually he ended up whipping the intake plenum upper half off (swine of a job even with rachet spanners but not impossible lol). At this point we realised that the plenum bolts underneath were quite loose which will have been the reason it was idling like a little swine (ie: all over the shop). Anyway onward!

Ian then went to work on the manifold. two bolts have snapped but shouldn't be agonising to take them off by welding a bolt on.

Got old manifold off then while the studs were there we decided to test fit the manifold, turbo and downpipe n wotnot. Its pretty darn close but there's a small issue or two to sort which I'm hoping wont be agonising.

anyway enough of my waffle, heres the cool bit - PICS!!!!!

Ians mittens test fitting the top mount manifold..

p1030507.jpg

you can see the T4 to T3 flange fitted on the manifold...

p1030508.jpg

p1030509.jpg

love this pic - its already taking shape hehehe...

p1030510.jpg

turbo was fouling against the power steering reservoir so unbolted it and moved it out the way slightly for the moment. Ian said a gtr one is a good swap and bolts nearer the front of the bay so I think I'll get one o those...

p1030511.jpg

p1030512.jpg

p1030513.jpg

here we got the wgate on...

p1030514.jpg

p1030515.jpg

We then got the downpipe on which mated to the four bolt flange on the back of the turbo in the pic above. It bolted nicely to the mid section of the exhaust and to the turbo but there seems to be a bit of an issue. The takeoff pipe from the ext wgate seems to not quiiiiiiite mate neatly to the wgate - we're tallking 3 blinking mm here bah!

p1030516.jpg

p1030517.jpg

p1030521.jpg

so plans now are to use the propane canister I bought today with the burner thingy and warm up the pipe then 'persuade it with a block of wood and hammer lol! It really doesn't need alot as you can see in the pics, but I'll take my time and make sure the pipe is super hot then knock it into shape. Need to speak to Chris @ Conceptua regarding tackling this.... or should I just blank off the hole and run a screamer pipe hehehe! :dance:

again massive thanks to Ian on here for coming over and helping me out - really appreciate it mate.

just need to get my old tub up for sale on here now :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319926-my-gt3076-conversion/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...