Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, im currently doing minor things with my car and im wondering what resistance is alright (higher or lower?)

I tested my original 6 set (have a second hand set in atm until can get new packs) and readings vary 1.3-1.5 ohms but one reads 2.0.

This has me curious about whether more is better or worse?

My idea is to try combine the 6 best working coilpacks to try reduce the misfire as much as possible until i can get my hands on new ones.

And one of my headlights gets condensation in it quite bad (the other does a little but not to the degree of it being a problem) and from this condensation there is a residue i wanna get rid of, i recently had my headlights polished and im wondering if i need special polish to do it or will car polish work i dunno, dont think i need to go to the degree of sandpaper but yeah, dont wanna stuff anything up.

I've already removed the headlight and i know how to dissassemble so that not a problem.

Thanks for any help.

Yeah i was going to use a hair dryer on it? to dry up any water. At first i thought there was a hole letting moisture in but i was told (and then shown) theres meant to be a hole there anyways so im just going to dry it up, clean it and then hope thats all it will take. (and seal anything that looks a bit dodgy.

95% of the time, plastic headlight covers will be suffering from an external build up or yellow tinge of the plastic from UV rays and corrosion in general - it appears to be on the inside but that's because it's in the plastic itself. Glassylite kit off eBay will fix this...or if you don't want to fork out $35, some fine grit sandpaper and plastic polish will take care of it (basically what comes in the Glassylite kit).

The other 5% will be a leak and moisture constantly getting in behind the headlight...in which case, disassemble and wipe the inside, then seal the hole with silicon. I'd try the Glassylite thing first though, because it's the easiest thing to do and even if it doesn't solve your issue it'll still have removed some crap because almost every R33 and R34 has the external build up issue.

cut and polish works well on the lights to get rid of the hazyness too apparently. i just used meguires scratch-x and a woolen buffing pad on a drill and it only takes a few seconds per light. takes longer to get the drill sorted and find an extention lead that it does to actually clean the lights.

as for the hairdryer trick, try to get as much of the water out of the light first with cotton buds or something like that as that will make the process much quicker.

Yeah i had Mark (Dr Detail) who i heard about on here come over and clean em up for me (and engine bay too) he did a great job and i saw how he was doing it (only didnt wanna do it myself the first time in case i stuff anything up) and its good but one headlight has a build up inside, im going to open it up soon and try clean it, then i was going to re seal it and sylicone it and any openings that dont look normal, and even if the condensation persists, atleast the yellow on the inside should be gone.

My friend also did his lights recently with the $40 kit from autobarn and it looks great!

But im hoping a nice firm wipe could remove the residue in my light this round.

Anyone have any thoughts on the coilpack resistance also?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...