Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have some things for sale that are just sitting around and I don't need them. Most came off my car when I rebuilt the engine in it. I am willing to post/ship items at the buyers expense. I may negotiate price on some things in here, but as usual no silly low ball offers.

Items:

Turbosmart megasonic blow off valve $200

Comes with adapter pipe that was on my car for it.

post-38812-1274012705_thumb.jpg post-38812-1274012730_thumb.jpg

post-38812-1274012756_thumb.jpg post-38812-1274012783_thumb.jpg

HKS R33 GTR Pod filter kit $70

post-38812-1274013001_thumb.jpg

Pair of Garrett GTR turbo chargers $800

These are steel wheeled, I was told that they are N1 turbos when I bought the car. There was no problems with them when on my car. I have put a brand new set on my car with the engine rebuild.

post-38812-1274013036_thumb.jpg post-38812-1274013075_thumb.jpg

Pair Garrett Wastegate Actuators $250

Brand new. Took these off my new turbos to install some HKS ones.

post-38812-1274012870_thumb.jpg

RB30 Water pump $90

This went on my car when I did the 100,000K service. I only ran the motor for about 400KM before I decided to do the rebuild.

post-38812-1274013110_thumb.jpg post-38812-1274013147_thumb.jpg

OS Giken Twin Plate Clutch $600

Came off during rebuild. Wasn't slipping when I was using it, but needs a rebuild as the friction pads are nearly worn down to the rivets. You can get rebuild kits for these clutches. Push type clutch

post-38812-1274012952_thumb.jpg

Stock R33GTR dump pipes $50

post-38812-1274012910_thumb.jpg

Bosch 040 fuel pump $200

Brand new. plastic unopened.

post-38812-1274012841_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320907-gtr-and-universal-parts-for-sale/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Pair of Garrett GTR turbo chargers $800

These are steel wheeled, I was told that they are N1 turbos when I bought the car. There was no problems with them when on my car. I have put a brand new set on my car with the engine rebuild.

Serial Numbers for these turbos are both 14411-24U04 so from what I understand are stock turbos. If I am wrong then please correct me. They have steel wheels for the exhaust side and I used to run 1.2-1.3bar through them without any problems.

Other things for Sale

Blitz Racing 60mm boost gauge $50

post-38812-1274781471_thumb.jpg post-38812-1274781504_thumb.jpg

Greddy Pillar pod $50 See other pictures above

post-38812-1274781537_thumb.jpg

Other things for Sale

Blitz Racing 60mm boost gauge $50

post-38812-1274781471_thumb.jpg post-38812-1274781504_thumb.jpg

Greddy Pillar pod $50 See other pictures above

post-38812-1274781537_thumb.jpg

boost gauge and pillar pod sold today

Come on guys buy the rest of my stuff, all bargains

G`day mate! Can you tell me the turbo`s part numbers? It should be next to the oil feed line.

Serial No's are a bit further up the page which will tell you what they are.

But here we go again:

Turbo1

YF0974J

14411-24U04

466071-6

Turbo 2

YF0954J

14411-24404

466071-6

as I said earlier serial numbers are for stock turbos

I have some things for sale that are just sitting around and I don't need them. Most came off my car when I rebuilt the engine in it. I am willing to post/ship items at the buyers expense. I may negotiate price on some things in here, but as usual no silly low ball offers.

HKS R33 GTR Pod filter kit $70

post-38812-1274013001_thumb.jpg

Bosch 040 fuel pump $200

Brand new. plastic unopened.

post-38812-1274012841_thumb.jpg

Still got these 2?

Still got these 2?

Sorry for the slow reply, not getting notifications for this thread

Yes they both are still available.

If someone is interested and wants a quick reply please PM me.

Hey mate Ill take the pods, can you PM me your mobile number and Ill contact you that way, I dont have over 10 posts on here so I cant send you a PM!

Pods sold to shatch01 pending payment.

interested in the bov is it a direct fit on a fmic

It fits straight onto a GTR in the stock location. You just block off the return pipe.

What sort of car do you want to fit it to?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...