Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

visited the guys down at traction tyres a while ago and have just saved up enough money for a decent suspension kit. the car is currently running 322rwkw with a aim to push up to 400rwkw once ive sorted out supporting mods ect.

my question is does anyone have experience with pedders new extreme kit?

more info: http://www.pedders.com.au/products/52

i know alot of people tend to stick to the jap stuff and 7/10 it is the wrong choice because aussie roads aint like the japs. i would like something comfy but im more then happy to sacrifice that for traction.

my understanding has always been coilovers are hard which isnt good for rwd traction but ive never really owned a set so any help would be great. cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320953-pedders-coilover-extreme-kits/
Share on other sites

Hey Mate,

Have not had personal experience with them.... but have received an expensive quote for a set of their rider coilovers... $2000 !!

Also have heard bad feedback from other people.... Mainly complaining about the price though..... not so much about quality

Cheers!

:) I put Pedders extreme coilovers on a WRX about 6 years ago when they were doing a special deal campaign in conjunction with Fast Fours and got the set for about $1650.00 inc fitting.

I particularly recall this excercise as true to the adds I got the deal done.-----------BUT-------------------

The suspension shop in Coffs (a Pedders Agent) who fitted them made such a shitty job of the install I had to take the car back to them to be fixed and they chargrd me another $380.00 to set the things up again.

I was a lot more naive then and paid, these days I would have just shot them.

As to the actual coilovers I recall they were a little on the hard side , good for track certainly but a bit tough for street and there was no damper adjustment, I saw the car about 15 months after I'd sold it and it had put on an obviously hard 40.000ks and the coilovers still appeared good.

Buy them again--?-- not without damper adjustment if I was going to use them on the street.

Hey guys. Got a set of pedders extremes on my car. Wouldve picked sumting else, but my mate works there and I know the owner. Got it pretty good price. It is a bit of a stiff ride, but it goes awesome round corners. IMO, not bad if u get it at a reasonable price. I'm satisfied enuf to still have it on my 33 2 years later

i was quoted 1600 from the good guys at traction tyres which i completely trust and have never heard a bad thimg about them. it seems that pedders gets a bad name from their fittets rather then their product.

for those of you who dislike pedders, what do you recommend? tein super streets seem to be popular but like i said im after traction 1st then comfort

  • 4 weeks later...

just got off the phone with some of the representatives @ pedders and it seems that the spring rates in the pedders are extremely high!! at least for what i want the car to do.

something like 6kg/mm in the rears compared to 4kg/mm that the Super Streets have. also found out that the pedders kits dont come with upper pillar mounts to adjust camber....=[

For that money I'd be recommending the BC Racing ones from Just Jap. I got the ones with the external resovoirs so you can adjust the dampers rebound and compression seperately. Plus I've heard they're actually made in the same factory as greddys coilovers. Spring rates are 8f 6r and come with pillow top mounts if your car supports them

Re-branded and expensive.

Re-branded what?

Pedders have always been expensive, no surprises there. I worked at Pedders for nearly 3years and while I'd buy other stuff now for the price differences, I put a full kit of stuff into the falcon I had when I worked there and it's still performing well 6 years or so later.

Pedders get a bad wrap which I think is not always warrented.

Anyway, I would recommend the BC Racing coilovers for the price. I just put some BC BR's in a mates 33 and I like them. Standard they come with 8kg front and 6kg rear spring rates but you can order them from justjap with just about what ever spring rates you want.

Tein SuperStreet kits come with 4kg front and rear spring rates and Tein SuperDrift kits come with 7kg front and rear spring rates. The Tein kits are known for being very comfortable, and they are, both of those kits were designed by Tein japan in conjunction with a tech from Fulcrum to be more aimed at Australia's rubbish roads.

I currently have Tein type HA jap spec coilovers in my R33 which are old japanese coilovers and have 9kg front and 8kg rear spring rates. They are too hard for Australian roads, not very comfortable at all. I'll be most likely changing them for a set of BC BR's with 8kg front and 7kg rear spring rates in the near future.

Hope some of that info helps.

thanks for the advice Tim.

ive heard that the extreme kits are BuddyClub stuff but i cant confirm that. in terms of what you currently have 9kg and 8kg sounds super stiff. are you hooking up with traction at all?

in a RWD car id try to keep it as close to OEM spring rates as possible.....why do people go so hard?

in terms of price atm the super streets are the most expensive sitting at $2300 followed by pedders then BC with 1500, 1200 respectively. has anyone looked into custom bilstein shocks with custom springs? expensive?

id be looking at something with high damper valving and low rebound valving, which is usally a problem because in coilovers you can only adjust both at the same time which isnt ideal for drag

Edited by Jap_Muscle

What you really need jap muscle is the BC coilovers that pistol-pete is talking about. You can adjust valving in both directions separate of each other.

My car doesn't have much traction as it is without big tyres but I'm not a drag racer, I'm into drift so the spring rates I've got now work for me now until I get some bigger sway bars and drop the spring rates in order to make it more comfortable on the street but still handle well.

What you really need jap muscle is the BC coilovers that pistol-pete is talking about. You can adjust valving in both directions separate of each other.

My car doesn't have much traction as it is without big tyres but I'm not a drag racer, I'm into drift so the spring rates I've got now work for me now until I get some bigger sway bars and drop the spring rates in order to make it more comfortable on the street but still handle well.

sounds great but i had a look on the justjap website and they didnt list any diff spring rates. do you know if the BC kits have upper piller mounts? any thoughts on where to get diff spring rates?

yeh your car sounds like its got wat it needs, damn drifters and their high spring rates. makes my ass numb :blink:

edit::

just had a look at the justjap website again and it dosnt look like they have the ER version of the coilovers. ill have to give BC direct a call to see if they have them =[

Edited by Jap_Muscle

The guys at JustJap are pretty good to deal with, in my experience. I deal with them a bit at work.

If they don't get back to you within 24 hours, give them another call and remind them about the email you sent.

well i had a chat to justjap and they have informed me that BC-Racing are not interested in making spring rates other then what they sell. quite a let down especially what they offer are only 7kg/6kg front and rear.

wayyyyyy to hard for the drags. looks like ill have to go custom koni/bilstein with king springs of some sort.

Koni and whilteline springs i have heard a are great i have them sitting in my garage to put into my car but just bought HSD HR coilovers and have a few freinds running them and they are feel great!

and i highly doubt that pedders are buddyclub!!! i wont buy anything from pedders they already stung me on pushing 2 front wheel bearings in i took them there with one already half out $180 dollars later wasnt happy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...