Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All located in SA, prices NEG, can ship IF YOU ARE SERIOUS. Want to clear out my house it looks like an import wrecker yard. Message me on 0403431194

OMP and RPM harnesses, used for a few months in a car that was never driven, comes with shoulder pads. $60 the lot.

DSC02386.jpg

diagnostic tool, displays all information from the standard nissan ecu vis the diagnostic port. Shows information much like the power fc can. $60 take it away.

DSC02385.jpg

Fuel rail,standard SR20 with -6 fittings welded on each end, supported over 400 rwkw. $15.

DSC02384.jpg

Bride Brix seat with rail suit R32 and S13, mint condition seat. Will hold ur ass tighter then a gay man at the mars bar. $500 with rail.

DSC02383.jpg

DSC02382.jpg

S13 SR20det motor, no turbo fairly complete. Suit rebuild, would be good for someone to build then swap the motor over in their car. $400

DSC02393.jpg

S13 head, had it sitting around for years, have all valves etc, rockers, cam caps. Again would suit someone wanting to port a head etc. $100

DSC02392.jpg

S13 sr20det block, main caps, girdle, crank. All decent condition, suit rebuild of course. $200 the lot cheap as chips.

DSC02391.jpg

Rb 25det bottom end, cracked ring lands, needs rebuild with pistons. Motor Is mint (drove in before we swapped motor) would be perfect for someone wanting a mild motor with just forged pistons in it. $200.

DSC02390.jpg

Rb25 head, no cams but has everything else. Mint as good for 30 bottom end conversion, no manifolds. $200 cheap as.

DSC02389.jpg

DSC02388.jpg

R34 rb26 block, crank, rods pistons. Block needs rebore as it dropped some valve guide. $400 for block, $600 crank, rods pistons 100, oil pump 100. Has done minimal km at it was mint apart from the valve guide.

DSC02387.jpg

Convo wheels, 15x10, massive dish, suit ford nissan chev holden, price drop!!!!!$$$$$$$$$$$700

DSC02376.jpg

Dont want to kill your 26???? put on this bad boy, HI OCTANE cast sump, will all the trap doors etc inside, welded to the sump with extended pick up, ready to bolt up, $700, too cheap.

DSC02395.jpg

DSC02394.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321119-too-many-parts-to-list-sa/
Share on other sites

how do i tell the difference? I thought the coils were different between them but there are no coils with the motor.

Done a bit of searching, doesn't really matter. Differences are the Throttle Body and Coils. So aslong as I use my Series 2 Loom, Coils, and Throttle Body, it's all good.

Where in SA are you located?

yep motor out, "technically" u could drop the subframe and take the box off but what is the point.

Sump is sold pending payment, if it falls through i will report back.

I am located south of the city about 20 minutes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
×
×
  • Create New...