Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering, I heard that PowerFCs do not work with autos?

I have an RB25det, with the original VL automatic transmission, the Jatco 4N71B.

Apart from strength issues of the gearbox, will I have troubles using a powerFC?

Its just that I can get one very cheap right now!!

Ive done a few R33's with autos and power fc's and it works but the shift quality is reduced as is kick down sensitivity, if it is a full built box then it wont be much of an issue. The other option is to fit a 300zx ecu and nistune it which gives factory like changes.

Just another thing to add, the 4N71B doesnt have its own ECU like the proper R33 auto boxes have.

I dont know much about gearboxes at all, but apparantly PFCs will work fine with 'mechanically' controlled autos, unlike electronically controlled ones ..... would the 4N71B be mechanically controlled? I dont even know what that means.

http://www.paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm#6

yeah from memory the VL jatco box is fine as it has it's own auto ecu vs the skyline auto box that relies on the normal ECU to do the work for it

i dont understand why, but i think the jatco is ok and it shouldnt flare as its own ECU tells the autobox what to do

i suspect the jatco and it's ECU has its own mapping for gear up/down logic and watches RPM, TPS etc

so it can work out when to change gear and disengages itself so it doesnt flare, and then re-enages

vs the R33 auto box

where it relies on the ECU to back out timing during gear change

ie the auto box can do the mapping for speed/RPM/TpS gear change OK, but it expects the ECU to back out timing, and it wont disengage itself

does my theory sound right?

read the PFC FAQ as per my sig

plug it in, turn car to ON, but DONT start the car

then do DATA INIT as per powerfc FAQ and self idle learn procedure

be sure to read the documentation and on how to self install, set injectors (if non std), airflow meter (if non std), boost kit BEFORE starting the car

You can hook it up and turn on the ignition and see if it turns on the hand controller and all that but unless you are suer of the afm , injector settings and all that dont start it, If you want to start it as paul said take a look at hes faq and go through hes methods of idle learning adjusting the injectors and afm settings and all that then giv it a start to see if it works.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...