Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone,

I have an R34 GTT with open air filter and 3" cat-back exhaust system. Thinking of adding a HKS EVC-S boost controller. Will that work just fine with original ECU or will the engine go dry (air/fuel mix)?

What if I install a downpipe and race-cat as well? Will it still work fine?

Thank you very much,

Karl from Stockholm, Sweden

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321498-how-much-can-original-ecu-handle/
Share on other sites

Obviously it depends on how much boost you run. If you want to run 12psi (max recommended for stock turbo) you may run into problems. First get the full turbo back exhaust then look into a Nistune chip for your ecu.

Yeah, 12psi is what I was thinking as boost level. So you mean that I should get a downpipe and de-cat/sport-cat and a Nistune chip before I buy a boost controller?

As I live in Sweden, and Skyline were never sold here, Nistune chip is quite hard to find. Can you recommend a web store that sell Nistune chips?

After installing the chip a re-map of the ECU is needed, right?

make sure you have a full turbo back exhaust and you can run 12psi just fine. the ecu will manage it fine without going a nistune, although a nistune would make it better. would be wise to also get a front mount intercooler as well if you don't already have one.

keep it to 12psi max and the stock ecu will have no drama's.

if you can afford to o nistune, and dyno then it will be HEAPS better tho :)

the r34 SMIC is also an easy option and can flow up to ~200rwkw

You wont lean it out, once you max out the ecu it goes into rich and retard mode, so once you hit the limit you will be losing power, also one you hit that limit (around 200rwkw) you will also need new injectors, afm and fuel pump, your next step should be a full 3" exhaust, if you have a 3" cat back then just buy a 3" dump (i have a 1 piece split dump that you can get from just jap in the traders section) and 3" cat or if the cops are not nazi's over there buy a de-cat pipe, should do the exhaust before upping the boost tho.

Also if you dont have someone over there that can tune nistune then dont bother, go for something more common like a power fc that any decent tuning shop will know how to tune, wont cost much more than nistune.

Edited by W0rp3D

Thanks for the tips guys!

Will go for a new front pipe and 3" cat and FMIC first, it seems to be the smartest way of doing, as you say. Boost controller will be the 2nd step.

If I don't want to go for a Nistune (which is hard to find in Sweden) or a Apexi (which is so damn expensive), is the HKS FCD the best option to control air/fuel-mix?

also stock injectors, fuel pump, and afm can all flow around 230rwkw

depending on condition and what dyno you use, at 210rwkw my injectors were at 100% and my afm was tuned past its max.

can also depend on the condition of the engine as well. a stronger engine will make more power with the same amount of fuel, etc. but on a mates 33 that i did a turbo install on the AFM wasn't quite maxing out at 250kw. it was getting very close to it (high 90's %), but hadn't quite it 100% though. that was with a 3076 with the skyline rear housing running 16psi. can't remember if he had the injectors in at the time or not. i have a feeling the injectors may not have gone in until after that as the stock ones were getting extremely close to maxing as well. i'd have to go looking through the dyno thread to see whether they were on the mods list at the time of the dyno run.

The ECU's from the different models seem to be less tolerable as the years went on.

My R32 RB20DET ECU handled everything from full exhaust/fmic upgrades, 14psi on stock turbo, 12psi on 25 turbo AND in the end, a 3L bottom end.

Here's another bit of trivia.. stock afm made 183rwkw on the RB20 with no signs of maxxing. Same afm on the 30 making the same power (same turbo), maxxed out a little over 6000rpm.

things like your fuel pressure, how well the injectors are working (how clean they are, etc), etc will all affect how much power you can make on the stock injectors.

not to mention a crap exhaust, a motor that just doesnt wanna make power and a low reading dyno, which were the main factors for myne.

20det ecus seam to do fairly well with more airflow, but then again 20s need something to help them out :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not the first person that's said that about this car lol. A Touring wagon GT in Spark yellow mica would be the dog's danglies 😆 I will keep an eye out for a future purchase for sure. The seats are almost like the OEM Recaros... electric adjustment for fore/aft and tilt movements except reclining.   
    • Yes!! I love these! It's a shame its not the wagon though!   Thank everything that's holy that it doesn't have the interior of the Aussie delivered ones. Those seats are so much nicer.  
    • I'm both sorry and thankful that you do that. 
    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
×
×
  • Create New...