Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

AUSTRALIA - QLD

EFI Performance

Unit 3/15 Emeri St Stapylton 4207

Contact Rick on (07) 3801 80 75

rick.w [at] efiperformance.com.au

http://www.efiperformance.com.au

East Coast Customs

2/14 Boothby Street, Kedron, QLD

Contact Rob on (07) 3359 5466

info [at] eccustoms.com

http://www.eccustoms.com

Fabians Mechanical

Shed 2, 29 Hyne St, Gympie, QLD

Contact Graham at mech [at ]fabian.net.au

http://www.fabian.net.au

K-Tune

5/8 John Duncan Court, Varsity Lakes, Gold Coast, QLD 4227

Contact Keith on (07) 55221115

http://www.k-tune.com.au

Mercury Motorsport

Unit 2/278 Newmarket Road, Wilston, QLD

Ph 1300 558 650 / 07 3352 3363

Contact Trent at sales [at] mercurymotorsport.com.au

http://www.mercurymotorsport.com.au

Stu Cornall Tuning Services

48 Old Maryborough Road, Pialba, QLD

Ph 0411 260 656 24hrs 7days

skyline_stu [at] optusnet.com.au

Available to NIStune ALL over Queensland. Extensive Nissan ECU tuning experience

www.nistune.com

  • 2 weeks later...
Gympie nistune is a no-go atm. He is now in Dalby with no dyno as of yet and i'm unsure if he is getting another one.

gary who used to work for him (and did most of the tuning) would still be able to do it. he opened his own workshop after graham shut his down. he bought a dyno dynamics dyno and i think he still has a few spare licences left to tune some cars with. he's shutting down in a few weeks though, but he will still have his dyno.

gary who used to work for him (and did most of the tuning) would still be able to do it. he opened his own workshop after graham shut his down. he bought a dyno dynamics dyno and i think he still has a few spare licences left to tune some cars with. he's shutting down in a few weeks though, but he will still have his dyno.

do you have his phone number? I got told from another nistune dealer is they cant do r33 's with out putting a r32 ecu in can anyone verify that? seems a bit strange

to do the r33 you either have to use a z32 ecu or r32 ecu (can't put a nistune into a r33 ecu). the r32 ecu won't allow the use of vct, however the power difference with and without it is minimal. when gary was playing around with his ceffy (has rb25det in it) he found that there was only a few hp difference between having it on and off.

his workshop is called gympie roadworthy and mechanical centre. phone number is 54829477. tell him marc sent you..... on second thoughts, maybe don't tell him that. he might double the price, LOL.

yeah gary told me. i might try and drop in

I rang gary and told him i cant make it , my controller stopped working and when i pulled it apart one of the resistors which feed the hand controller for my digital fuel adjuster had smoked it self. Im hopping it just because it was resting on a heat sink ( fingers crossed ) can u believe no where in kingaroy sell resistors on the week end dick smith are not stocking them anymore and anything jaycar is online

i ended up finding a few resistors in my mates old buggered alpine v12 amp. i installed them and it did it again bugger!!!! i have ended up removing the ecu and giving it to toshi ( from this site ) to retune but once done ill head over there and get the car dynoed to see what power it putting out and also that its not running too lean after the tune.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...