Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey i have been told that my gasket is leaking between my exhaust an turbo. The things i wanna ask is Leaving this too long will it result in future larger problems? How long will it take for a mechanic an How costly will it be? An If There is any stud problem how much is that setting me back also?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321554-turbo-exhaust-gasket/
Share on other sites

i had this on my 33 when i got it needed gasket from turbo to exhaust and gasket from head to exhaust, and studs where sanped in head tho. and to pull every thing off then get studs out put it all back in with all band new studs and new gaskets, it was a all day job morring till dark ,1st time i had eva done that on a skyline too . but i am no mechanic hope that give you a idea of how long it might take

this happened to me on my r34 gtt aswell.. when they were changing my exhaust to a full turbo back he discovered it.

do u have bad fuel economy atm? i got told it wouldnt do the turbo much good if i left it like it for too long and it have abd fuel economy. i had it fixed straight away as the exhaust was already coming off...

Is it the exhaust manifold to turbo or the turbo to downpipe? either one is relatively simple and 800 is definately a rip off! You would only really need a socket set and turbo bolts are not too bad. Drop exhaust pull of intercooler and intake pipes undo heat shields and unbolt turbo, don't think you will even need to remove banjo lines should be able to slide turbo off and on if its that one.

A while ago when I didn't bother doing my own work i had the manifold to turbo gasket fail, i had the problem found and fixed as well as having my cambelt changed for $550

Is it the exhaust manifold to turbo or the turbo to downpipe? either one is relatively simple and 800 is definately a rip off! You would only really need a socket set and turbo bolts are not too bad. Drop exhaust pull of intercooler and intake pipes undo heat shields and unbolt turbo, don't think you will even need to remove banjo lines should be able to slide turbo off and on if its that one.

A while ago when I didn't bother doing my own work i had the manifold to turbo gasket fail, i had the problem found and fixed as well as having my cambelt changed for $550

Exhaust manifold to turbo i believe. Yer but you need stands ect or a lift.

All that has to be done is take heat shield off undo the bolts that hold the dump to the turbo. Gasket comes out. Replace with new one and that's it. Would only take about 30mins to an hour for an exhaust shop to do it. I've replaced my dump/front pipe and that only took me about an hour to do myself.

All that has to be done is take heat shield off undo the bolts that hold the dump to the turbo. Gasket comes out. Replace with new one and that's it. Would only take about 30mins to an hour for an exhaust shop to do it. I've replaced my dump/front pipe and that only took me about an hour to do myself.

Mmm, How much work is under the car? Just for the gaskets? An did you use some sort of stands for the front/dump pipe?

you can get away without taking dump off. in fact all lines except oil return can be left on turbo. remove heatsheild. undo turbo bolts... lift up. remove stuffed gasket and fit new one. refit nuts and torque up... done

This has happened to me too. But instead of removing the turbo and putting it back on I'll chuck a new turbo on.

Question is about this torque up thing.

I couldn't get a socket onto the nuts, this normal?

and anyone know the correct torque settings?

you can get away without taking dump off. in fact all lines except oil return can be left on turbo. remove heatsheild. undo turbo bolts... lift up. remove stuffed gasket and fit new one. refit nuts and torque up... done

This is true. It is very easy you have enough room to play with to fit and remove the old gasket.

This has happened to me too. But instead of removing the turbo and putting it back on I'll chuck a new turbo on.

Question is about this torque up thing.

I couldn't get a socket onto the nuts, this normal?

and anyone know the correct torque settings?

yeah 17mm spanner usually is the go

FT specs is what i do em... as tight as i can get them and then use those locking tabs.. never have an issue

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...