Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=4680

Check out that thread from supraforums.

Basically the same stuff you look out for when you go shopping for the car. And ask to see ALL the papers that came with it from Japan.

ohh thanks man, thats really helpful!

Lol This kid is hopeless.

replace hopeless with hektik. Has anyone had experience with Version One Auto Imports?

Il show yu the car http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1997-Toyota-Supra-5...=item5190659b6e

Edited by La Bomba

supra looks decent if u can afford it - interior need a detail from what i can see in the pics though!

ie indicator stalks etc...

but

looks like a neat car... i reckon you would be capable of getting a decent NA 5mt supra from uss JP for your budget for sizzle.

also

what about an AE111 sprinter???

im trying to get my mate to buy one but he's a c*nt ... he used to have a ae110 sprinter and loved it but now drives a 250xxxkm 01 build corolla that's falling to bits...

n doesn't wanna risk importing =P

anyway... seeing as you swear you're not a fgt..

what about ae111 sprinter bz-R??? i (personally) would have this before i went non turbo supra..

20v 4age mated to 6speed gearbox

can def be had for your budget

1999-Toyota-Corolla-Levin-BZ-R_01.jpg

1999-Toyota-Corolla-Levin-BZ-R_02.jpg

1999-Toyota-Corolla-Levin-BZ-R_05.jpg

cute little two door ...recaro driver and passenger seat.. neat little interior, punchy engine, dual airbags, sunroof... would be a more "spirited" drive than a supra (no offence alvin)

it'd be like driving a honda i imagine...

Well, the supra is a tad heavy, but it no doubt handles perfectly.

I bought the supra for its looks + 2JZ reliability/power and of course, i've always wanted either a skyline or a supra since i was what, 16 i think.

So when it was finally time to take the plunge, i just got the supra.

  • 1 month later...

mate. Skylines are the way to go. but if ur looking for something cheap then on ur little japaneseusedcars website go for something under 3 if u get it cheap then do what most people on this forum do. and rebuilt it using their own blood sweat and tears. After all its always better to look at a car and go I built this . instead of looking at a car and saying I bought this . good luck mate. nd stay within the law

You are either a troll, or the gov't hasnt imposed the law regarding to retards breading yet..

1. you are looking for cheap versions of good cars.. hint. they are f**ked up!!! that's why they are cheap

2. you're uncle is a mechanic.. is he qualified.. or backyard mechanic? cause he doesn't even know what to do with a vin to search for the cars history..

3. you can't just assume the bmw has thick oil to hide knocks.. its new oil and tires cause he's trying to spruce up the car and also for RWC issues..

4. Once you buy a import you don't suddenly have the knowledge to drift..

5. Neons is where its at.. You stick some neons under the car.. in the boot, under the footwells.. and man.. those bitches just get on their backs and wet up..

You can't just sit in a car and expect some street cred.. the cars you are looking at are common.. Plus most are commy and ford drivers.. No cred with them.. And the girls wet up over a commy/ford with a bodykit and fully sick rims..

replace hopeless with hektik.

You're hektic? Love kebabs? Live around sydney? Then the VL is the car for you..

Edited by .:: GimpS-R34 ::.
Just a daily. Like an overall balanced street car. I'd prefer RWD so I can learn how to drive properly (currently using a front wheel drive car). and yeah i wouldn't mind learning how to drift but can't afford too with the price of tires.

the post made me LOL hard. what a fkn nugget

also lol at noob digging up thread

Does a nugget mean its like ..worth heaps? eg a gold nugget. Anyway my car is absolutely immaculate. Nice engine, Blitz Ecu, cheap on fuel.

I drive like a grandma to get maximum fuel economy so like I can do heaps of laps in George St yelling out to chiks.

Oh yeah i bought a car, didn't import, found an immaculate example locally

...oh....my....god....

Can this please be renamed to "OP is a f**ktard" ?

Now why exactly wud i berate myself u fool.

lolllll

me? daft? hahaha i think an 87.05 uai/atar prooves im not daft.

No the main reason I want an import is so I can impress everyone. Not by going fast but simply sitting in the car. If i pay for something I'm not going to abuse it because I take good care of everything I own. If a P.O.S was given to me, to be honest, I would treat it with less respect than a car I've bought with my own money. I only exceed the speed limit by around 5-10 km's when I drive and only in 90km/h sections...so getting an import is mainly for street cred. However I'd become a better driver learning in a RWD car than a FWD which doesnt mean i'd be thrashing it by any means. And f.y.i im not a hoon. bogans in their p.o.s commydores try drag me at the lights in my e90 corolla, which is pretty sad considering my corolla has 67KW and they feel big by blowing smoke towards my corolla. And CAMS licences probably costs thousands of dollars. too expensive. And i honestly don't see any difference between completely thrashing the shit out of a car on the track and thrashing one on the street, both do the same damage to the engine and chassis. Street obviously is more risky because of other cars etc, but flogging a car on the street and track is essentially the same thing. I'd rather buy a nice import car that has been owned by a old grandma, than a car enthusiast, cause most car enthusiasts have their cams licence and have their weekend track days flogging the car. As for your commodore statement, i'd rather not get a commy cause holden still hasn't learned to make a good engine. My parents could help me buy a car, but I'd rather use my OWN money because that way i'd feel i've earnt the right to drive a nice import. So calling me a hoon is unjustified. Just because i like watching japanese touge drift runs doesnt mean I'm going to go out on the street and try to drift...for one because I don't know how, and for two because I can't afford all the new tires and for three because it is my car that i would have paid for. Buying an import based on seeing how these cars can be driven is a legitimate reason in my opinion

Smokey nagata, the legendary tuner, going 300km/h through wangan tunnel does not impress you? Mr.Eps he musst not be a car enthusiast because according to you he would be a "Hoon". Man that's bullshit. He's part of the reason why lots of people want a skyline, him going this fast on the street is example of pure skill, much more skill than someone going 300 on an airport strip

These cars can be driven so hard with such precision is a good reason to simply own one, purely because of the respect ud gain for having one "Mr.Eps". Those silvia s13 "street hoons" as youd say, are better drivers than you'll ever be, and it seems you're jealouse you cant execute that sort of skill legally, let alone illegally. Those guys drifting on the street is far more impressive than organised drift events. Because that was the starting ground for so many guys, e.g Orido, now why don't you hate on him? cause technically you should call him a "Hoon who should drive a commodore". You're picking on me cause I'm 18 and looking for an import, which immediately madee you jump to assumptions. Now I'd hate to be you but you've just been outsmarted by an 18 yr.old, who is supposedly a "Hoon". Just because i'm a newbie doesnt mean im gonna take shit from some Hot headed enthusiast.

LOL i havn't even read this whole thread, and frankly, I'm not going to.

You seem like a complete and utter moron who wants to buy and import for all the wrong reasons.

Firstly, if you want to buy an import so you look cool and awesome and fully sick infront of your friends and the chicks, then you must have your head stuck so far up your ass.

Secondly, us Japanese Car Enthusiasts do not buy these cars so we can go drifiting on the street. Sure, it's fun to watch those videos and all, but we buy these cars to enjoy driving them. I brought my R34 GTT because I like the look of them, I appreciate the car it is, and sure, I occassionally put my foot down, but I never do anything which would or could be considered hoon behaviour or anything that may cause danger to other road users/myself.

You need to re-evaluate your situation, because if you want a Japanese Import so you can look fully-hektik-uleh, then, excuse my language, but you're a f**king idiot.

guys lay off yeah?

he's new... as much as this thread is a bit of a larf this isn't the wasteland so please lay off the full blown nasty comments...

la bomba is being ironic when he says he yells out at chicks and wants to look hektik. he's only having a joke...

he wants an import for the same reasons you guys do... he came to SAU with the wrong mindset but has since learned a lot and changed his mindstate... so please - give the guy a chance, we were all noobs once!

la bomba - what car did you end up getting? have pics?

But you're the fool..

1. Can't spell for shit

He's Ukranian. English is a second language to this guy, not to mention the cultural barriers he faces when entering the "import" culture at a younger age.

that's HIS excuse.

what's your excuse for saying "breading" and not "breeding" a few posts up? :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...