Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No no, on paper, like all JJR products, they're high quality mad shit, but the word around the scene is they last 5'000kms to 10'000kms.

Although on that note, most people tighten the bolts up as hard as they possibly can...probably what burns out the bearings.

I think they're $300something pair aftermarket, or $200 each OEM for front bearings, but don't quote me on saying that.

Still a modification I'd recommend to any Cefiro/Laurel owner for sure.

  • 2 weeks later...

So, my dude's next container arrived.

Trust twin pipes still in Japan :(

Body kit that I ordered and still haven't received the bill for, was in the container though....

Did receive:

Trust downpipe

Late model floor mats.

qz5278.jpg

TurboTech Performance V2 Boost Controller arrived (3 weeks later)

mhr0d2.jpg

Would definitely recommend these to anyone and everyone. Holds boost way better than any electronic controller ever will.

Got some spare time today, so I chucked on the Trust downpipe and an unknown brand stainless split dump.

25hg4s6.jpg

There's a sort of decent increase in diameter size.

rckc5z.jpg

Wank factor pic.

2cclzdc.jpg

Sounds pretty much same same, a tad louder. Probably same volume as the RB20 was. Performance is definitely up a bit, boost comes up a bit quicker and smoother, and climbs through mid/high revs quicker as well :)

Skanked up the engine bay a bit last week

2nrpw1e.jpg

Edited by Nic_A31

I dug up one of these brackets that came with one of the numerous RB25 turbo's I've bought over the years.

Stripped it down to bare metal

125rjgp.jpg

I did paint it black, but, those photo's didn't turn up on my SD card for some reason.

A bit of this stuff

348sht1.jpg

I cut the base plate off another bracket, and used that with some threaded rod, nuts and washers to tighten it down, to create:

k0ngnq.jpg

Boost controller is sitll in plain sight, which I suppose isn't the aim of the game, but it's easy to get to, and that shit's bolted down proper.

sgl43k.jpg

What do y'all think?

Edited by Nic_A31

It's not that cops are laid back, it's just that, if I ever am asked to "pop the hood", there's 11 billion very valid reasons for them to start writing up a yellow sticker, starting with "RB20E...RB25DET, not same same - get that shit rego'd"

If I'm going down, I'm going down hard. The plan is to create a list soo big, that the dude at the pits will be like "look, this is f**king crazy, there aren't enough hours in the day for me to check all of this just, fix all the illegal shit and come back"

Edited by Nic_A31
  • 2 weeks later...

Got bored last night, so decided to put that FMIC on one way or another.

This is the kind of mess I make...

353ciyo.jpg

Intake side was alright, the exhaust side was a bit of a bitch.

I'll cut that piping down when I got some spare time at work next, make it all fit a bit neater.

Eventually got it all in there and running.

Test drive was as per below picture.

ka5nkj.jpg

Didn't have to cut the reinforcement bar at all.

Did have to chop the fan blades down a bit, and the bumper at the bottom.

zbkme.jpg

Pipework is a bit wonky, but does the job.

20l05sw.jpg

Sadly not noticing as much performance gain as I was expecting, but I guess now I'm at the stage where it needs a tune.

Front lip has come off.

Bumper still a bit bent to get it on over the cooler, so it doesn't sit right.

That, and, I've smashed it on my driveway and on a box kerb when I was parking up at the shops, so it's starting to look a little shitty.

That'll be getting plastic welded sooner or later and it'll go back on when I get the front bar, guard, and kit sprayed.

So, stay tuned for a big cosmetic update.

Edited by Nic_A31

Yeah, I didnt notice much of a difference when I did my front mount on my first cefiro either, think it was the added pipework made it feel a bit laggy, you'll notice a difference when your cracking gate for extended periods id expect, and as you said , better with a tune too.

Good effort getting it behind the front bar, and major props to working on gravel! Not bad :)

Cheers man :)

Snapped this pic this arvo.

30cyh6s.jpg

When I mounted it first time, it was a bit off centre. Mainly to get the pipework to line up hassle free.

I fiddled some more this afternoon and put it back on centre (well, it's still out by like 10mm or something)

59od2.jpg

Cut out the bottom row of 'vertical bits' to clear the pipework a bit better, and also cleaned up the plastics a bit.

Got quoted this afternoon to get all the panel+paint work done.

Dropping car off either this weekend or early next week to get following:

Front bar resprayed

Front lip hopefully fixable (depends what bumper repair guy/plastic welder says)

Front Right guard resprayed

Stage 21 Side Skirts

Stage 21 Rear Bar

Rear Right door (dent removal, respray)

Front Right door (respray, rust removal)

  • 2 weeks later...

Got the car back today.

Excuse lack of weathershield on front right door, note the straight panels and fresh paint.

2iizcao.jpg

The rest of the car badly needs a buff+polish to match the freshly painted stuff, but it is all the same color now.

w9bjih.jpg

Kit still needs some work to make it sit right on the skirts and rear bar.

29yl7wy.jpg

35ar63b.jpg

Exhaust sits a bit too inside the bumper for my liking. If those Trust shotguns don't fit (and poke outside the bumper) I'll chuck that huge BeeR cannon on there.

2zzhvdw.jpg

Anyway. Just got home. Just a tad stoked about how it turned out.

I'll give the car a polish next weekend, and take some proper pics of it.

Then I'll chuck on these ProjectMU nuts

idtb7q.jpg

Cheers man.

Still a bit undecided on it. Hard to tell it even has a kit at all depending on what kind of surface its parked on, and lighting.

Will keep it like that for a while, if I change my mind I'll spray the whole lot white, but I think body colored front lips are a bit odd looking.

Not soo much on white cars, but still IMO doesn't look as cool as black.

http://cdn.mkimg.carview.co.jp/minkara/photo/000/002/401/911/2401911/p1.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

sg4eoj.jpg

Havent taken any whole-car photo's with those on yet.

Maintenance work last weekend got pretty messy.

2uopde1.jpg

2rwkl5f.jpg

Got manifold off to clean the area below it and replace some heater hoses.

Gave everything a quick clean with the wire wheel on the drill.

974mra.jpg

2u90sq9.jpg

2r5dd3k.jpg

Done some other bits n pieces.

Finally got around to buying brake line clips from Nissan. Less than $3.00 each and in stock, should've done it sooner.

ndqu8g.jpg

Removed silicone induction pipe, and put rubber one back on, new Drift dry pod filter, and made some brackets, secured it lower and closer to the headlight. Definitely noticeable difference moving the pod away from the exhaust and in front of a cold air duct (90 degree bend for the standard SMIC still bolted to the body) and now I've got some room to make up an air box and snorkel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...