Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That's some weird oil/water heat transfer thing.

Uses oil to get water up to temp quicker.

You can probably remove it all-together RB20 style, I've never looked at it, it's pretty handy on teh daily driver for those cold mornings when you just want the heaters working ASAP haha.

nice and tidy as always, paint looks good

i like the colour matching front lips and one tone cars tho, s13 or c33 is the only one to pull off two tone

thoughts on china spec front facing plenum? should at least make it 500rpms more responsive for full boost, maybe more and i bet its a legal mod in WA :glare:

thoughts on china spec front facing plenum? should at least make it 500rpms more responsive for full boost, maybe more and i bet its a legal mod in WA :glare:

HAHA if only, instant boost ftw

so just minus 500rpm from current full boost figures

Well as it is now, begins spool at 2000rpm, 10PSI @ 2500rpm, full boost (13.5PSI) at around 2700rpm.

all those numbers are staggered about 200rpm or so down if it's super cold.

So......

I chucked one of these DRIFT steering wheels onto an AutotecnicA boss kit couple of weeks ago too.

Sorry for teh blurry pics, I've tried for the life of me, to get a sharp pic on my phone, but it isn't happening.

When interior is all cleaned properly, I'll take some day time pics.

10wqfth.jpg

Having no self canceling indicators and no horn to abuse shit drivers was driving me insane, so the GT-R wheel had to go.

Now I have both again, so I'm happy.

what trubo is that? figure a r33 s1/2 not a31/c33

with FFP =10psi at 2000k should be fun :P

so AutotecnicA boss kit does self cancel? nice

my stocker does well, no clue why everyone upgrade's when they start drifting except for having to look JDM

best looking wheel = nardi and the china deep dish ones

  • 2 months later...

what trubo is that? figure a r33 s1/2 not a31/c33

with FFP =10psi at 2000k should be fun :P

so AutotecnicA boss kit does self cancel? nice

my stocker does well, no clue why everyone upgrade's when they start drifting except for having to look JDM

best looking wheel = nardi and the china deep dish ones

R34 turbo.

Yep, self cancelling FTW, I thought all boss kits did that ...

No clue why anyone uses deep dish at all on Ceffy/Laurel, since you can just adjust the column, and bring the steering wheel closer.

But, it does look pretty sick.

Done some cosmetics, see below.

Gloss black vinyl on B and C pillars on the doors.

Shields back on.

Some stickers - stickers are cool. More stickers are coming.

Interior shot.

Exhaust fixed up.

30kel3c.jpg

16kw7dz.jpg

346ls40.jpg

6ehj5c.jpg

dcvwva.jpg

2ytnw93.jpg

2m65th0.jpg

Well, that sheet of vinyl, was something like 1000x1500 mm, and it was about $50 delivered (eBay).

Pretty easy to fit, the only hard part was the C pillar, I had to dig up the Cefiro badge I ripped off my old door before I scrapped it, used it as a trace to cut that double-circle shape out of the vinyl, then layed it down.

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Not much news on this thing these days.

I got some adhesive suede in from some mob in South Korea off eBay.

oupe7o.jpg

I messed it up a little at the passenger end, but apart from that it's on all sweet, very easy to bend in and around the shape of the trim piece.

Much nicer than that manky old beige colored shit that was on there before.

Slapped a fibreglass roof wing on this afternoon for MAXIMUM DOWNFORCE!!

2zin1fk.jpg

That is all.

I'm gonna try and find someone to modify the rear bar for me, bring the rear wheel arch end of it in a little more so it's radial to the wheel the same as the standard bumper.

Edited by Nic_A31
  • 2 months later...

Such a nice Cefiro, one of my favorites. Does your front bar have more room behind it than a s1 bar? I'm having problems fitting my lip as the bumper curves out to clear the cooler (which is mounted as far back as possible) and the lip won't mount onto it nicely

Yes, the S1 bar's mounting points are actually the lower radiator support, the S2 bar drops almost straight down.

I have the same problem, my front bar is slightly bent getting around the intercooler, so the lip doesnt set in contact with the bumper on the corners near the headlights/corner lights, I need to modify my mounts and cut the pipes down to pull the cooler back closer.

347w6zs.jpg

Better pic of the interior.

She's off the road at the moment.

Only takes one broken cable tie to f**k your shit up.

34hxjy1.jpg

2lx8013.jpg

Gotta patch that up and going to run it through the engine bay this time rather than through the wheel arch.

This is my new daily monster for the time being

xrkoh.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...