Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering as to why people generally go for hi flow turbos rather than a brand new turbo? From the prices i have seen the high flow option really isn't all that much cheaper and if you end up going for BB high flow it cost about the same or more than aftermarket garret turbos.

Any information is appreciated as I am looking at one of the 2 options. Was thinking of high flowing but the price seems more than i expected and may as well just go new it seems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321741-high-flow-vses-new-turbo/
Share on other sites

The weakness in the stock turbos is their turbines and the bearings. A stock turbo can push 12psi with minimal lag as its optimized for your car. Highflowing the turbo will bring in a new turbine and ballbearing setup with the same boosting characteristics as previous. You will be able to hit boost faster than say, upgrading to a bigger turbo(GT3076 for example). Although a newer turbo may flow more air and create more pressure, your turbo is built for your car and improving your turbo will give you a significant boost.

I'm running a highflowed VL turbo with a GT3071 BB turbine. Comfortably boosts 16psi and I can hit full boost by about 3krpm, positive boost at about 2krpm.

Welcome to the world of upgrading turbos. Where there are so many f**king variables, your brain will explode.

I'm in the process of upgrading my highflowed to something which can push more HP at lower boost. Read my thread for some ideas about turbos(its called Need Clarification or some shit).

Edited by SargeRX8

correct

the turbo itself might not be that much cheaper, but the parts involved in bolting on something aftermarket change that.

another advantage alot of people see is that it looks stock. cops wont bug you, and you get a good upgrade over stock without changing too much.

Highflowed turbo is a brand new turbo engineered to make the most out of your stock housings. So your housings would be the limit factor in terms of max power. The engineering process is inversed, lots of factors to consider, and lot harder to get a perfect result.

With brand new turbos, The housings are engineered refer to CHRA assembly and engine size. So it would have some advantage interms of max power and boost control, How ever it might not fit your stock setup.

So if you are just after abit more power for every day street use, high flow is recommended, else get a brand new turbo.

Ah yea I see people having to upgrade manifolds and going external gate the cost of a new turbo definitely starts to climb quickly when they are taken into consideration.

Since i have the r34 turbo with the bigger rear housing high flowing is probably a good option. Gonna see if i can find someone reliable locally that could do the job for me as i can't go without a car for long periods of time unfortunately.

Thanks for the help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...