Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i know this is hard to diagnose but got a clunk in my car. When i am in reverse and it is engine braking down a hill (like my driveway) and i put the clutch in it makes kind of clunking noise and thought it might be engine or gearbox mounts. It makes the same sound when driving up hills in 2nd and clutch in quickly to change to the next gear (this is at lower revs like 2500/3000rpm).

Other day changed the oil in the car and while had the car on blocks tried to have a look at the mounts couldn't see anything obviously suspicious but not exactly sure what i should be looking for. The problem doesn't seem to be major as yet but if it could cause bigger issues i would like to get it sorted out. If there's anything else that could possibly cause these noises let me know.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321901-worn-engine-or-transmission-mounts/
Share on other sites

I have the same thing (at least from what you've described)

In my case at least, you will find that the transmission - from clutch to diff - is not absulutely tight. There is an amount of free play in the drive shaft. When the wheels are being driven (there is load on the wheels from the engine turning them) the free play is being taken up in one direction. When you depress the clutch, the engine stops driving the wheels, causing the wheels to "drive" the gearbox, in turn taking up the free play in the other direction. This change can cause a small clunk sound from the diff, which is where the "looseness" more than likely lies.

The sound will be much louder depending on how loose the diff/gearbox is. If you can get under the car, turn the drive shaft with you hands backward and forward, you will see what I mean.

Not saying this is your problem, but it's something to consider :P

diff wears out faster, particularly if you dump the clutch on launches which would do damage to the driveshaft/diff internals....

just don't drop the clutch when you're stationary, and you should be fine. it would be relatively normal as parts wear out...new diff would fix it :) but fk that

  • 4 weeks later...

yea last time i had mine on the hoist i did notice a little bit of play in the driveshaft, from memory it might have rotated half an inch or so freely but apparently thats normal, as long as its not excessive like it would have to be to do what your describing. yours might be rotating a lot more and at a point it will start giving you a noticeable "jolt" from inside the car as trozzle described when it changes from engine driving the wheels to wheels driving the engine. maybe when the diff was new it would have had either zero rotational play in the driveshaft or maybe just the tiniest amount and with wear and tear over the years it gradually increases.

mine was up on the hoist as i'd just rebuilt the gearbox and the driveshaft still had that little bit of play so the diff will be where most/all the play comes from. 2nd hand diffs are usually un-expensive ive found and they'r easy to inspect internally so you should look into that

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...