Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was keen on the stack dash purely because of the Tacho being analogue.

BUT after researching for weeks about the competitors ended up getting the AIM dash, IMO better and cheaper and still CAN compatible for the M800 to talk to.

This was my overriding requirment. Not to duplicate sensors all over the car.

I really like the AIM units, and would have probably bought one if it would talk to my stock ECU. Unfortunately it wouldn't, so Stack was the better option in the end. How do you find the AIM?

While we are on the subject of different dash's,

Has any one used the microtech dash?

Looks Pretty basic but may be an option for me

Had one, didn't really rate it at all.. its basically just the handcontroller in a different box/layout with some lights. Its only compatible with Microtech too BTW.

But the ones you guys are looking at dont have much data logging and external inputs , do they? its good that it covers the basic engine details, but it doesnt have 4 wheel speed sensors so yoou know when you are gettign wheel spin or locking brakes. I am not sure if they come with the software that you can overlay your laps and compare times. Not sure you can run pyros to get brake temperatures or pots to get roll and pitch. Cant log A/F or fuel rail pressure

So not saying all that crap is required, but if you are spendign money on a unit, it pays to get as much data logging and analogue inputs as possible. If i am wrong then apologies, but when i looked a long time ago the Stack units were very expensive if you wanted data logging and extra functonality.

I bough an AiM MyChron in 2004. I like it, but if i had of waited until a botu 2006-2007 i would have been able to get a way better dash for less money

I like the stack, as i am only really interested in the tacho when your at full flight and they have great tacho's the react fast.

also very easy to see warning for over temp, low oil , which scrolls up when a problem occurs.

mark has an aim in the r34, which is good too and data logs all the info also has a laptimer and it's back lit with bright led's for shift lights.

So not saying all that crap is required, but if you are spendign money on a unit, it pays to get as much data logging and analogue inputs as possible. If i am wrong then apologies, but when i looked a long time ago the Stack units were very expensive if you wanted data logging and extra functonality.

The quote to turn my dash into a data logger, with video overlay features and the camera kit with DVR is close enough to 5k US... ouch!

I really like the AIM units, and would have probably bought one if it would talk to my stock ECU. Unfortunately it wouldn't, so Stack was the better option in the end. How do you find the AIM?

Had limited experience with it. Would be nice if it was a touch bigger. I only bought the base model with no logging. But the M800 has inbuilt logging in any case. The alarm functions are very good. The top alarm LEDS are very bright. I hardly have top look at the display when driving. Its easy to configure to just startle you if something is wrong. So you can then look at the display.

Its just like a bigger version of Roy's MyChron

IMO depending on your ECU and if it has CAN buss. The system is A LOT easier to implement. I think the latest POV can connect via CAN as well and allows the data inset to be recorded within the video.

Edited by Tektrader69
I like the Defi cluster, but pretty sure it wasn't available outside of Japan. think i read somewhere about $2.5k.

post-194-1275003245_thumb.jpg

I already look into the defi cluster, not sold outside of japan, so i was like i be sneaky and get my contact in japan to buy it for me then ship it here but you can't do that because they have to install it aswell :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...