Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all

i did a search before but forgive me if this has already been asked.

i currently have sumitomo HTR ZII all round on my car

they are forward directional, but also inside/outside specific

dont want to get into a tyre debate here lol

i have a bit of inside camber wear going on...so what i need to know is

can the tyres be flipped from side to side, putting the *outside* on the inside...to even up the camber wear?

obviously the tyre has been designed that way for a reason but i was just wondering how much difference it actually makes.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322654-directional-and-side-specific-tyres/
Share on other sites

got the same tyre on my car.

i flipped the rears didnt notice any diffrence but in the wet they might not be as good?

cheers mark

i might just give it a go, its either that or get new ones so might as well.

I run tyres backwards on the rim often in the race car, in the dry, there is no noticeable loss of performance

However I think you are mad to do the same on a street tyre. There are 2 key things that are different - as Mark said the wet performance suffers because the tyre is not designed to pump water in the direction you are running it. Also it is possible the internal construction may have a problem running backwards eg steel belts loosening.

If it was safe to run these tyres backwards the manufacturer would say so - they only use assymetric or directional design when they have to to meet a certain performance goal.

On a related topic....what is your wheel alignment (camber and toe, front and rear)? If it is out you are better to address the problem than throw new tyres at it.

Why not swap the tyres onto the opposite rim, so that the tyre at least continues to rotate in the same direction - ie, take the tyre off the LH rim, and mount it on the RH rim, with the "outside" now "inside". Only the inside / outside property would be compromised.

mark maybe the zIII are different because mine are definitely direction as well...

im aware its not an ideal but just trying to get a bit more life out of the tyres before i have to replace them

also am aware i should really address the cause of the camber wear, im assuming adjustable camber arms will enable this to be resolved?

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
×
×
  • Create New...