Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does any member here have a 10 sec gtr car or close to that , that is their daily driver, or every second day.

i bought a 10sec gtr cheap and drive it basically every second day. and everyother day that i have a chance, its got a lot of mods to it, from computer to cams to t78 turbo, but what i was wondering is how reliable are they with standard internals, as i only run 18psi on normal days, and 22 psi when i race at night.

I just want to know peoples comments as to weather or not to keep the internals standard till something lets go or start not and replace everything with forged internals..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32287-10sec-gtrs/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 155
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i ran the car at the creek just after i bought it, i knew the cluth was slipping casue i felt it slipped in forth, but it thought it was casue i was franging it and it was gettig to hot, but when i popped the clutch off the line, my clutched slipped in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and forth, so i cruised it over the line in 5th at about 3 grand casue there was no point in hitting it anymore, i ran a 13.01 at 189kph. i have the papers for that, but i know ill run a high 10, lol 11, first time with my new clutch..

and for GTR13 the T78 kit isnt very responsive at all till about 4500 when you can hear the turbo starting to spool, but after 5200 hold onto your neck casue youll snap it when boost comes on, id recomend the t78 kit to anyone wanting a daily driver like mine,casue you can cruise it everyday and you dont have to be on boost like all the other kits, petrol is excellnt doesnt waste much only when you frang it, or munch other cars on the road..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32287-10sec-gtrs/#findComment-647829
Share on other sites

What are good alternatives to the standard box for a 10 second gtr??

are you better off with something like an OS giken cross gear set or is it better off the just save the pennies and go straight for a dog box?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32287-10sec-gtrs/#findComment-648252
Share on other sites

i think its a waste of time spending 5-7000 for a good dog box, casue really it is very hard to pop a gtr standard box, and even if you do after a long time thrashing, you just buy a second had reco'd one for 1000 bucks and start again.. save you a lot of money,.

i think its only after the 10 sec mark that you have to think about dog boxe and stuff like that.

im not that worried

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32287-10sec-gtrs/#findComment-648687
Share on other sites

i run .8bar everyday and usually thats enuf to keep most cars at bay, unlike last sat night where a 180 actully won and thought he was so great. little did he know i could boost up to 1.5bar. also the weather here is very hot and i a dont like to push the limits.

as for your stock internals u might be pushing a little hard.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32287-10sec-gtrs/#findComment-648692
Share on other sites

i think its a waste of time spending 5-7000 for a good dog box, casue really it is very hard to pop a gtr standard box, and even if you do after a long time thrashing, you just buy a second had reco'd one for 1000 bucks and start again.. save you a lot of money,.

i think its only after the 10 sec mark that you have to think about dog boxe and stuff like that.

im not that worried

I dont think it is hard to blow the standard box. I have done 2 box's and 1 diff. I am querying the info given though. Im not very good with calculating MPH Information but "13.01 at 189kph" whilst slipping every gear? Is this possible?

HIGH POWER + SLIPPING CLUTCH = high time but speed doesnt match up.... :confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32287-10sec-gtrs/#findComment-648708
Share on other sites

like i said if you dont belive me i have the papers from the creek and i also have the video which proved every gear slipping, the only reason i got the 189kph was the fact that i was redlining in 4 gear for about 5 seconds it still got my kph up there , most cars that run 189 k's dont the stretch run a 11, so i think with new clutch should run a low 11 first go,. eastern creek is opening up in a week or so i heard...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32287-10sec-gtrs/#findComment-648765
Share on other sites

I just want to know peoples comments as to weather or not to keep the internals standard till something lets go or start not and replace everything with forged internals..

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. My GTR has forged internals coz the engine was apart when we did the first big build. The standard internals should be good enough to hold around the 350rwkw mark for awhile. They could possibly hold more. GTR700 had standard internals with over 440awkw. Not sure how long they lasted though.

Just remeber that the engine that burns twice as bright lasts half as long....

As for the gearbox. My standard box was fine for hold 375rwkw everyday but I changed to the OS Giken Cross Mission after we did another build and got the 446rwkw. The box is holding nicely. Smashing gearboxes isn't hard but on the other hand, if you drive sensibly, there is no reason why you should be breaking boxes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32287-10sec-gtrs/#findComment-649121
Share on other sites

Hi guys, once you get into the < torque - traction - weight > equation of a high power GTR it doesn't matter how gentle you are with the standard gearbox. They simply rip the teeth of 3rd (mostly) and 4th (sometimes). Once you get over around 500 ft lbs of torque the width of the gears and the number of teeth in contact just can't hold it. With no slippage in the drive train and then the substantial weight of a GTR to accelerate. First and second survive because of their lower ratios and traction relief, but once you get up to third it has to survive on its own metallurgy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32287-10sec-gtrs/#findComment-653161
Share on other sites

You bought a cheap 10sec gtr that runs 13's?? Gears twice the size of a rex - so what! - how much rubber does a rex have in contact with the road thus loading up the gearbox. Should you start running 10's i think then you might see the standard gears are not up to the task as sydneykid pointed out (upgraded synchros and bearings do not strengthen your gears). Engine bay pics on this 10 sec beast and a copy of that time slip with big mph on a slipping clutch please.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32287-10sec-gtrs/#findComment-654071
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...