Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just bought a gts25t its pretty stock except for a tip...and really enjoying it. However I am told that I can tune the boost up 2 psi before the computer will stop me. If I did this what gains could I expect? 15kw at the rears?

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

if it is stock (stock exhaust, etc) then you won't see that much of a gain from upping the boost by 2 psi. you will see a gain, but not that much, maybe 10kw. you would see a much bigger gain from putting on a full turbo back exhaust and then putting the boost up 2psi. even just doing the exhaust would see a gain similar to what you will get by winding up the boost 2psi.

also the ecu won't start throwing a tantrum until you up the boost by about 5psi, but on stock exhaust a 5psi increase would be stupid.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5268828
Share on other sites

you can expect higher fuel comsumption haha..

on a serious note, you're better off leaving the boost stock and getting a full turbo back & a good panel filter.. more noticable gains.. that 2psi on a stock car, you won't feel the gains.

once you've done that, then wind up the boost to 0.8bar ~12psi then you'll feel something

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5269087
Share on other sites

you can expect higher fuel comsumption haha..

on a serious note, you're better off leaving the boost stock and getting a full turbo back & a good panel filter.. more noticable gains.. that 2psi on a stock car, you won't feel the gains.

once you've done that, then wind up the boost to 0.8bar ~12psi then you'll feel something

Would an upgrade of the exhaust manifold be enough?...I don't want it too loud. I think it would be too loud if I did a larger pipe all the way through. Though I could put resonators in. Its sounds just right at the moment.

So I could gain 15-20rwkw with just an exhaust? Sweet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5269291
Share on other sites

Manifold upgrade won't do anything, the restriction is after the turbo. There are plenty of quiet exhausts around, and if they are still to loud than just get another resonator put in along with a better quality muffler

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5269325
Share on other sites

No, A full exhaust, hi flow cat, dump pipe and filter upgrade might see that sort of increase. (don't change manifold unless your changing turbo) But you might not even feel much change.

If your chasing the sort of gain an extra 2psi will produce then I suggest looking into the cars handling first, Ie swaybars, tyre/rims, suspension, Hicas lock bar, castor & camber adjustments, Brakes!etc

You will feel a much better improvement doing this.

Then when the car no longer handles like a boat, look into increasing the power. Change the boost from the stock 5psi to 7 psi @ 4500rpm and make it 12 psi from 3000 rpm or whatever and you'll notice a much more rewarding change.

Just do lots of reading on the forums and you will learn a lot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5269358
Share on other sites

I had a 3in fijitsubo jasma cat back when i got my gtr with the stock compliance cat. When i changed out the compliance cat to a highflow I got a fairly decent gain, I noticed the turbos would spool earlier and faster and the car felt much happier. Probably +10 killerwasps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5269359
Share on other sites

The 7 on your gauge is in the units of 100mm HG. Just like distance can be measured in miles, lightyears or KM - the units matter (a lot).

760mmHg = 1 bar. Therefore your 7 = 700mg Hg which is ~13.5psi.

A rough way is to double whatever number it represents on the gauge - then you have psi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5269465
Share on other sites

it wouldnt be running 13.5psi with everything stock???

i dont think they are that accurate my reads seven but i am only running 9psi, been on the dyno so i know its 9 psi... or 9.26psi till 4000rpm to be exact.

on the exhaust side i have a 3" dump decat and 3" trust silent power and i think its super quiet cant even hear it when cruzing so you dont have to have a loud exhaust to make power, i think you should get a full exhaust system before trying to wind up the boost the gain will by far be better then winding up the boost and as mentioned before a K&N pannel filter will give you better gains all over the RPM range then winding up the boost!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5269750
Share on other sites

Many thanks,

I thought 3 1/2 psi was little low for the power it was wacking out. I find my suspension great... almost too tight on the bumpy northland NZ roads.

So what size exhaust is about right to start with? 3" or 2.5"? I am also told that nissans love bigger intake manifolds.

I just got married so money is not really flowing :) but i would like to get the car as a project up to 170kw at the rears if I can do it cheaply, but properly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5271104
Share on other sites

3" turbo back exhaust, fmic and 12psi will see you up around 170 to 180kw easily.

as for the exhaust being noisey, if you find that you want it quieter after putting on the 3" system, invest in a decent oval muffler. they make things much quieter than cannon does.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5271616
Share on other sites

3" turbo back exhaust, fmic and 12psi will see you up around 170 to 180kw easily.

as for the exhaust being noisey, if you find that you want it quieter after putting on the 3" system, invest in a decent oval muffler. they make things much quieter than cannon does.

As long as you don't hit rich and retard... my 34 when fairly stock was great with 185rwkw @ 13psi for about a month, then R+R kicked in hardcore and it just became a pig from 4.5k-6.5k rpm.

A new ECU or (Nistune flash) should definitely be on the cards - people not looking for big power tend to avoid ECU mods but IMHO they are worth their weight (money?) in gold and give a huge performance / driveability increase throughout the whole rev range...

Just my 2c.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5271803
Share on other sites

As long as you don't hit rich and retard... my 34 when fairly stock was great with 185rwkw @ 13psi for about a month, then R+R kicked in hardcore and it just became a pig from 4.5k-6.5k rpm.

A new ECU or (Nistune flash) should definitely be on the cards - people not looking for big power tend to avoid ECU mods but IMHO they are worth their weight (money?) in gold and give a huge performance / driveability increase throughout the whole rev range...

Just my 2c.

Ya, I have a Z32 chip which I was going to use in my N/A but I will use it in the det instead. Sweet, that stagea sounds like what I am wanting to put out approximately. I hope to do it with a tune and exhaust. We'll see.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5273211
Share on other sites

How much difference between getting a jap exhaust vs a custom one from the local shop?

If you get a reputable performance place to make you up one it will be just as good as a jap exhaust and a whole lot cheaper IMHO. And you'll get exactly what you want.

Just find the right place to do it...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5273518
Share on other sites

How much difference between getting a jap exhaust vs a custom one from the local shop?

didly squat all. what will differ between exhausts though (talking cat back here) is the amount of noise attenuation that the mufflers have (how quiet they make the car). a big oval muffler will make the car quieter than some cannon from supercheap. unless they really cock up the piping when bending it then pretty much all 3" exhausts will flow pretty much the same.

when you start talking about cat converters and dump pipes then things can change a bit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5273623
Share on other sites

i make 188.5RWKW

3" exhaust turbo back

pod

9psi

everything else is stock

so if you go with a full exhaust 3" good rear muffler oval as said before will quiet it down heaps and air filter upgrade you should be pretty close to your goal and be well under 1k

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323185-2-psi-increase/#findComment-5273649
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...