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Detonation? Pining?

R TUNE

By R TUNE,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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R TUNE Mentor

R TUNE

Posted
Posted

Ok

I had a old turbosmart boost controol in my r32 (borrowd of a mate for a drag meet) and wasn't happy with it as it spiked at 14PSI and droped of to 10PSI and just seemed dogy to me. I had the car dyno run with this in and made 136RWKW all was good,AFR were fine and haddent noticed any eng issues.

(this was done while temp was 32 and 90% humidity i live in darwin)

Now the dry season has kicked in and i have started to notice the mertalic rattling sound when im at full boost (3/4 throtal 5000+ rpm)

so ive being safe and satyed off full boost.

I then had my new turbotech (off ebay and has being featured in hot-4's mag) so i poped it in and like the diffrence, boost came on much stronger and stayed at it's set level (14psi) but i noticed it's detonating still, so i had a try at adjusting it. bad idea it's still detonating and now doesn't pull has hard.

Im planing on getting it on a dyno to set the boost but could i also be looking at spark plugs and or coil pack's on the way out.

I have had a bit of a look but nuthing that realy answers my question.

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paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

the main causes of pinging/detonation are excessive intake temps, poor fuel, or too much timing

what intercooler

how is the state of tune

how is your cold air intake setup

what are the intake temps

what fuel are you using

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

@90% humidity, you effectively have a form of water injection, useful for preventing detonation. Now that the air is dry, that water injection has gone, you no longer have the protection against detonation.

Try backing a couple of degrees out of the timing.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

things may have changed since it was last on the dyno. your fuel pump could be dying for example. that would be leaning the afr's out and causing the detonation. or it could just be from the change in humidity as blind_elk said. also if the air temps are colder then that may be affecting things as well

R TUNE Mentor

R TUNE

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
the main causes of pinging/detonation are excessive intake temps, poor fuel, or too much timing

what intercooler STOCK SMIC

how is the state of tune STOCK AS FAR AS I KNOW

how is your cold air intake setup EXSPOSEDPOD (WAITING ON BOX TO BE MADE)

what are the intake temps HAVNT MEASURED would say 50plus deg (is pretty hot when i touch it)

what fuel are you using 95 RON it the highest up hear that get's used regurly only 3 servos sell 98 at close to $1.70p/l and you dont know know how offten that gets changed.

HAVE ATTACHED THE DYNO GRAPH BEFORE THIS STARTED.

post-32868-1275706409_thumb.jpg

post-32868-1275706972_thumb.jpg

post-32868-1275707078_thumb.jpg

post-32868-1275707223_thumb.jpg

Edited by redliningr31 skyline
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

so there you have it

you have 3 critical elements to cause excessive detonation / pinging

lots of boost

a shit intercooler

a poor cold air intake system

and poor fuel

so you will need to negate at least one or two of those to correct it

better fuel will certianly help

a better intercooler will help, but it is only as good as the ambient air temp

less boost will always help

a good cold air intake will certainly help

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

i woudnt bother with another SMIC

your ambient temp is excessive at best, so you need as much help as possible

a larger core directly in the airflow is a big step in the right direction

the SMIC is useless, too small, in the wrong location and won't be effective enough

toffy Veteran

toffy

Posted
Posted

and you've been told what you need to do :( , here it is in list form:

change the fuel pump (044/040 bosh is what most people use)

fmic (obviously)

cold air intake (stock air box modified imo is the easies/best way)

better fuel (if it's possible , what fuel are you using at the moment?? )

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted

As mentioned by blind_elk, the humidity in the air acts as a form of water injection into your engine. Water is a great suppressant for detonation and why its used with a blend of methanol in injection systems /offtopic

r34 smic will need the outlet pipe cut and welded onto the other side.

Although being in such a hot place in australia, as much as im pro-smic, you might be better off with a fmic as your smic will probably suffer in the constant darwin heat.

R TUNE Mentor

R TUNE

Posted
  • Author
Posted
As mentioned by blind_elk, the humidity in the air acts as a form of water injection into your engine. Water is a great suppressant for detonation and why its used with a blend of methanol in injection systems /offtopic

r34 smic will need the outlet pipe cut and welded onto the other side.

Although being in such a hot place in australia, as much as im pro-smic, you might be better off with a fmic as your smic will probably suffer in the constant darwin heat.

Ive managed to find one that has being moded allready, plus i move back to melbourne end of next year.

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted
can't for the life of my work out why you're f**king around with upgrading to an r34 smic with plans to later upgrade again to a fmic

gigantic waste of time and money

who says you need to upgrade to a fmic? Im running an ARC smic and pushing 210kw at the wheels... The r34 smic can handle 200kw and thats the going power rate for a r32 these days. Dont need a 300kw fmic which a smic can handle quite well for 200kw power goal

and seeing as a r34 smics can cost $50 and modifyng to fit is another $50, i think for $100 its much better than some chinese quality fmic which needs your whole front end cut up. No gigantic waste of money or time mate.

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