Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's the link:

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/dealer...id=128D55EBC81C

Dealer is Power Rd

Questions:

1) The ad says "series two GTV" what's different ?

2) "Factory 17" alloys", the rims are obviously aftermarket?

3) Why would the car have "turbo brakes" and a recaro seat, possibly because of it being a gtv or something?

All input appreciated,

Matt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323596-checking-out-na-skyline-tomorrow/
Share on other sites

"The GT-V is essentially a full GTT chassis - including the uprated brakes, suspension, HICAS, LSD, strutt bars etc but without the turbo (RB25DE instead of the RB25DET). Still with the Neo straight engine, and VVT, the GT-V's put out 200PS in standard form"

Thanks bud. so that answers question #1 and the question of the turbo brakes

That price seems rather high for a N/A especially since the K's aren't that low. I assume it came with 17 Alloys originally and the seller omitted that they were changed to aftermarket.

"The GT-V makes use of the exact same suspension setup as the GTT, has the same brakes (4 pot front / 2 pot rear), and the same 17 x 7.5 (offset +40) alloys with 225/45/ZR17 tyres."

"Nissan released a special edition of the GT series - the R34 GT-V. The GT-V is essentially a full GTT chassis - including the uprated brakes, suspension, HICAS, LSD, strutt bars etc but without the turbo (RB25DE instead of the RB25DET). Still with the Neo straight engine, and VVT, the GT-V's put out 200PS in standard form, a great improvement over my previous R33 GTS's 130PS."

http://www11.ocn.ne.jp/~skyworks/gtv_specs.html

Power Road are a very good dealership and their cars are usually top notch!

You will be able to negotiate them down a bit on price - at least $1k.

GT-Vs are a perfect P plater car (alongside Supra SZ-Rs). All the perks of the turbo model but 100% legal to drive!

yeah but looks like a dealership...they always put the price high, then u can cut off atleast 2k off the price

That's true, mine was 2k more at car city but I went direct to the dude who imported it, if you went to the dealership though they won't be able to do as much as 2k for instance because they'd loose all their margin... I would recommend going private and just take someone who knows their stuff with you. Saving that money is worth it!

Power rd aint cheap but their cars are awesome condition. My car, my brothers car, my friends cars (wrote off the first one and got another). Apart from the written off one all of ours are going fine years on with no problems. My brother got a 2000 r34 gtv from them for 15k on road. Was a 4 door though

im not allowed.. a turbo.. and if he doesnt want a turbo. dont get a skyline

well thats your choice to drive a turbo you get dicked you cop it

but just because he wants a NA car doesnt mean he cant get a skyline, its a personal prefence

oh and a v35 onwards is a NA so does that mean we all cant buy them cause there non turbo?

The price is high becuase of market demand.

Think about it - the criteria this car has.

- Coupe

- Manual

- Big brakes

- Skyline

- R34

- P-plate legal

Probably the ultimate n/a R34 setup straight of of the factory.

Easiest car to eventually turbo charge (if you decide to) - as it is a manual and has all the support mods needed for a turbo - such as big brakes.

The price is high becuase of market demand.

Think about it - the criteria this car has.

- Coupe

- Manual

- Big brakes

- Skyline

- R34

- P-plate legal

Probably the ultimate n/a R34 setup straight of of the factory.

Easiest car to eventually turbo charge (if you decide to) - as it is a manual and has all the support mods needed for a turbo - such as big brakes.

Yes, it's an ultimate p plater car, but it is still not worth that much lol.

It's like an ultimate burger meal, you get a piece of chicken, a burger, chips, mashed potato, drink. Awesome for dinner, but would you pay $50 for it? :)

Yes, it's an ultimate p plater car, but it is still not worth that much lol.

It's like an ultimate burger meal, you get a piece of chicken, a burger, chips, mashed potato, drink. Awesome for dinner, but would you pay $50 for it? :)

100% agree with you. The car isn't worth much. It is just the demand on "P plate legal" Skylines (or any sporty car) that pushes the price up. :)

My advice for the OP - nothing wrong with the car - but paying the price of a turbo for a non-turbo car is un-fair on you IMHO. Dealerships and people in the know are ripping off P platers.

End of the day your money, each to their own etc....

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...