R32 Gtr In Rwd (fuse Out) Problems With Diff

[Mad Rusty]

Hi,

Now Everybody knows you can make a R32 GTR into a RWD by pulling the fuse out,

BUT

has anyone had the problem of single wheel skids???

its as if theres no lsd at all like a soggy old commadore!

How can i drift my R32 GTR if if it only single pegs (single wheel spins)? is there any solution to this?????????

I am Desperate to do some twin rear wheel skids and drifts!

Also

just to ruin everyones fun....my dad gave me some info that really got me thinking.....

If the entire car was built to transfer power to the front wheels as soon as there was an increase in load from the engine, then nissan themselves only would have put a rear diff in that only needed to be rated for say a random guess of 50% of the engines load......as the rest gets transfered the the front drive.

If we all take the fuse out and put every single 100% of our horsepower into the the rear diff, then isnt that just going to maggot our diffs quicker than we can cook a stir fry??????????????????????

let me know what peoples thoughts are on this

[jrm]

You created an account just to post stupid questions?

You / your dad needs to learn how ATESSA works - The GTR isn't that stupid:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Attesa

Short story - GTRs are primarily RWD until the system determines that it should put torque to the front wheels:

The ATTESA-ETS layout is more advanced than the ATTESA system, and uses a 16bit microprocessor that monitors the cars movements at 100 times per second to sense traction loss by measuring the speed of each wheel via the ABS sensors. A three axis G-Sensor mounted underneath the center console feed lateral and longitudinal inputs into an ECU, which controls both the ATTESA-ETS 4WD system and the ABS system. The ECU can then direct up to and including 50% of the power to the front wheels. When slip is detected on one of the rear wheels (rear wheels turn 5% or more than the front wheels), the system directs torque to the front wheels which run a viscous LSD.

If you're getting single rear wheel skids, then your rear diff is shagged - service it, recondition it or replace it - whatever - see a mechanic. Seriously, your car is how old? You can't honestly expect everything still to be in 100% working order (especially if it's not regularly serviced).

[Deano 1]

you diff needs a rebuild mate,

and yes drifting the ass out of a gtr will stuff your diff faster than it being in 4wd. The same as Drifting the ass out of a s13 or s14 or s15 or whatever..... in the end Drifting kills all diffs, gearboxs and every other joint in the drive train..... if your worried about breaking your gtr drifting.... buy a drift hack and leave the gtr at home....

[Mad Rusty]

well iv been on this this site for ages, just never had a question to ask so never bother making an account,

so primary RWD for about 0.1 seconds if you do a launch then 50% is at the front wheels for the remander 19.9 seconds leaving the rear diff quite unharmed,

Then going to a RWD perminantly by taking the fuse out then launching and keeping the wheels spinning for 20 seconds at 100% power at the Rear wheels and you think that wont shag a diff????

also my diff isnt shagged,

with 44,4XXKm on the clock it really shouldnt be shagged

and i dont ask stupid questions you unhappy person

Edited June 4, 2010 by Mad Rusty

[prosman]

mate that is the 100% opposite of how it works. when u launch and lose traction, its switches to 4wd. otherwise its usually 2wd. plus most R32s will have wound back odometer readings out of japan. its hard to believe that a 15+ year old car only has a true 44000km on the clock

edit: my bad thought u were talking about 20 seconds of drag not drift.... bottom line still remains, if its not working like an LSD should - service it/recondition it/replace it

Edited June 4, 2010 by prosman

[doo doo]

Two facts- your diff is shagged because it is open wheeling and- it shouldn't be because it's only done 44000k's. Given you can prove the diff is shagged and can't prove it's only done 44000k's (and add the fact that it's over 15yrs old and most R32's imported have wound back odometers-it's very common) i'd say a) your diff is shagged and b) your car has a lot more than 44000k's on it.

check your diff cracking point by lifting one side of the rear and turning the wheel with a torque wrench- if it turns before the torque wrench clicks off at 25 or so ft/lbs then it's up for a rebuild. (I'm happy for someone to correct me on the torque figure and method if I'm wrong)

About the AWD system- Nissan have designed a system that takes into account the friction circle of the tyres. You don't always get 50/50 split- if you watch the front torque gauge on the dash you'll see it is variable and if you're cornering hard you'll also find there's little or no torque transfer. If the front tyres are approaching there limit of grip in cornering then transferring power to them will exceed there grip and you'll start understeering, this is why the attessa system has more than just wheel-spin as an input, it also has throttle position, steering wheel position, forward, backward and sideways G-sensors, etc.

EG- if you come on power early in corner exit you won't get front torque transfer (or very little) as this would exceed the front tyres grip at that moment so you'll start to oversteer. As you correct the slide more grip becomes available to the front wheels as you start to straighten them (less turning force on them), the computer registers this through it's inputs and will start to feed power to the front, pulling you straighter and requiring less steering correction for oversteer. This is a bit of a simplification but it's just to convey the general idea.

If you work out how the attessa system works by riding the tyre friction circle (and therefore working out where that is when you drive) you'll be able to start driving the car the way it was designed and it's a blast. If not you'll find yourself spinning it around waiting for the AWD to save you.