Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is an F40 calliper. To the best of my knowledge it looks no different from an F50 - piston areas aside. It does look and is different from the Brembo's found on the R33's etc & from the current range of Brembo callipers.

Also to the best of my knowledge there is no difference between an F40 & an F50 pad (Which in turn is the same as a Brembo equipped BA Falcon, oddly enough).

Lastly I am not aware of there being any difference in the rotor sizes that these callipers can accomodate ie an F40 can go on a 324 rotor (like mine) a 343 rotor or a 355 rotor. As can an F50.

those are f40. f50 doesnt wrap around the disk as much.

ps. you can also use a "wide face" 355mm disc used by holden i think, in a 2 piece disc hat combo but using a custon hat.and use evo/sti pads for a much wider pad area

  • 10 months later...

Heres my new puppies.

On the way from Japan at the moment, should be here next month.

Brembo 6pot with a 380mm rotor. Any idea what they are off?

Old thread but.... With some small exceptions in the bridge and brake hose attachment area, those calipers look a heck of a lot like the early version 6 pots used on some AMG Mercedes.

$4.5K? Wow, everything is spendy down there. I realize that's for calipers/rotors/mounting brackets, etc., but still! I bought a pair of the same calipers in the US for $730 in 2009, and they were practically brand new.

AMG Mercedes... ignore the OEM mounting bracket.

DSC04267.jpg

DSC04268.jpg

DSC04266.jpg

DSC04270.jpg

DSC04269.jpg

Edited by Havoc1
  • 4 weeks later...

all well and good, but what about pad and disc replacement costs? i prefer to stick with a nascar type pad wick can be had new dor less than 200 bucks, also 25-30mm thick...

We've got about 8 different options on pads for that Ford/Merc 6 piston Brembo, it's quite a common caliper.

With regards to Nascar pads, alot of the teams are switching to Project Mu now because, although more expensive than the current crop of US made stuff, they last ALOT longer, and the Nascar pads are distributed worldwide from PMU here in Australia, not Japan, so depending on what you're after, you'll be able to buy the PMu Nascar pads here cheaper than what you'll be able to if you buy a set having done a round trip around the globe. Yes, they'll be more expensive, but as most categories are finding now (particularly the V8's and Porsche Cup locally) the PMu gear lasts alot longer than most other big name brand stuff, so pays for itself pretty quickly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
×
×
  • Create New...