Jump to content
SAU Community

rb26 in a 180? Need answers


SKYL9
 Share

Recommended Posts

maxim i was interested in that. I heard you had to modify the trans tunnel though or the firewall and this made me a little hesitant.  

I have on my onevia with rb20det, 18's, Tein HR's and front and rear strut braces. I found the strut brace really made up for the heavier engine. The rb is great for drifting, i get minimum understeer so its fantastic in that regard. I have a few friends who do some track racing. In the wet weather against a whole lot of other s13's, an rb25 powered silvia had the best time round the track. In the wet.  

Anyways the handling effect isn't too bad, and i would go to the extent to say it's a benefit if the car is being used for drifting as it eliminates some understeer.

Turbo tits is right too. Rb25 box bolts to rb26. To do a 4wd conversion to an s13 would be a very big task and i haven't seen it done yet.

Hey Mase,

I don't think modification of the firewall would need occur depending on the crossmember you used. The trans tunnel I would imagine may need some attention such as widening similar to the 'procedure' (hammering the hell out of it) when fitting a RB25 gearbox. The crossmember may need to be fabricated from scratch (Expensive) but I think the dimensions of the 1jz to the rb25 are very similar.

Nothing like a wet track and alot of rear wheel power to put a smile on the dial is there! good times :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

max.. u talking about AWD?

No, RWD. Don't think there would be anyway to make a 4wd s13 with a rb or equivlant size engine. No unless you wanted to raise it like 3" from stock!

Speaking of AWD, I wonder if you could drop in a GTIR Sr20 (east west config still ) complete with gearbox and make an AWD s13 that way? Interesting...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

true that.. but id rather have the fun factor and no traction than be able to run a good time

this is exactly what i want now

http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=1084

try this:

http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d46228460

ull have to find out the year - with any luck its 88/89 so u can import it. if u get it for 400k yen, ud probably get it here for about 11k $aud, which would be pretty sweet. if u have around 14k all up then it should be fine - the main thing is whether it will be a 88/89 model or not (88 = S63 in japan year system, 89 = H1)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a 26 will be a struggle to fut under the bonnet of a silvia, seeing as though the rb20 basically touches the bonnet. as for a gearbox, you can use any rwd RB gearbox (you could even use the trimatic frrom a VL if you're that stupid), but your best bet by a long shot is the RB25 box (which DOES bolt straight up). you will need to get a custom tailshaft made up, and most likely a custom crossmember. also, you will need to have the GTR front diff cut off the front of the RB26 sump. all your engine mounts would need to be custom made, and it would be a very tight squeeze getting the whole thing into the engine bay. moving the battery to the boot would most likely be necessary.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a 26 will be a struggle to fut under the bonnet of a silvia, seeing as though the rb20 basically touches the bonnet.  as for a gearbox, you can use any rwd RB gearbox (you could even use the trimatic frrom a VL if you're that stupid), but your best bet by a long shot is the RB25 box (which DOES bolt straight up).  you will need to get a custom tailshaft made up, and most likely a custom crossmember.  also, you will need to have the GTR front diff cut off the front of the RB26 sump.  all your engine mounts would need to be custom made, and it would be a very tight squeeze getting the whole thing into the engine bay.  moving the battery to the boot would most likely be necessary.

The RB26 fit's under the bonnet easily, Use standard R32 engine mounts on R32 crossmember, slot the 10 mm to drop the engine a bit lower, the front diff is actually next to the sump and you only need to weld up a couple of holes where the front left driveshaft goes through, as for room in the engine bay there is actually more room width wise in the 180 as they have a macpherson strut front end versus the GTR's double wishbone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a 26 will be a struggle to fut under the bonnet of a silvia, seeing as though the rb20 basically touches the bonnet.  as for a gearbox, you can use any rwd RB gearbox (you could even use the trimatic frrom a VL if you're that stupid), but your best bet by a long shot is the RB25 box (which DOES bolt straight up).  you will need to get a custom tailshaft made up, and most likely a custom crossmember.  also, you will need to have the GTR front diff cut off the front of the RB26 sump.  all your engine mounts would need to be custom made, and it would be a very tight squeeze getting the whole thing into the engine bay.  moving the battery to the boot would most likely be necessary.

ok i think there is alot of confusion from people in this thread about this topic...

if you have ever seen a RB20/25 vs RB26 - the visual comparison is the fact that the 20/25's have the plenum run over the top of the cam covers and the 26 runs down the side... HENCE - there are no bonnet clearnace issues with RB26

you are correct about gearboxes.. i wouldnt even consider a RB20 gearbox as you'll munch it straight away - so i'd stick with RB25 box...

yes you'll need custom tailshaft.. with my rb25 install i got a custom single-piece talshaft made up $400ish

u dont need a custom gearbox crossmember... instead i used my SR20 AUTO gearbox crossmember and just welded a plate and redrilled a few holes to line it up - simple job

use standard R33 engine crossmember and mounts - its not neccassary to get custom mounts....

and it is a tight fit length wise.. width wise - well if you dont get a custom manifold to push the turbo's forward then you'll be there all week trying to fit the RB26 in with standard exhaust manifolds...

it is not necessary to move the battery to the boot.. as the cooler pipe just misses the battery

hope that clears a few minds up

BRAD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

talking about stupid ... I think you'll find the trimatic never came out in the VL :)

yes it did :D

R31 had a jatco 4 speed, VL had the trimatic.

please don't call me stupid.

that's a very good point about the plenum, one i never thought about

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How about we just let the people who have actually done a RB conversion speak instead of people who havent sprouting off their own beliefs... (ie what gearbox bolts up)

JK

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes it did :D

R31 had a jatco 4 speed, VL had the trimatic.

please don't call me stupid.

since when did the trimatic come out in 4 speed....... all VL Commo's were 4 speed autos

As for the conversion.... its easy as dude. There are a few people here that have replied with facts, but some are just way off track. Traction in a 2 wheel drive RB26 powered car is fine if the suspension/wheel package is thought about accordingly. Understeer is not really an issue either as most will think. Weight wise the SR20 wieghs 140 od kgs with all accessories and the RB ads about another 120kgs to the entire car, lots of which is the gearbox which reduces the talk of underteer to just a rumour......

Speak with a workshop that has done it if your not certain on what to believe in this thread as they will be able to give you 100% facts. Call Dean at UpImports, he is also on here as VSPECV, he has done quite a few of these conversions :(:D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

champ... its been discussed plenty of times before...

in all honeslty the weight doesnt effect the drive of the S13... mainly because all the extra weight is due to the large gearbox (which sits close to the center of the car - keeping weight distribution even)

the RB26 (being TT) weighs a bit more than the SR... but not enough to be considered a problem

with the right suspension setup - this eliminates understear caused by extra weight....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have on my onevia with rb20det, 18's, Tein HR's and front and rear strut braces.

hey mate sorry to change the subject but saw the onevia in ur profile, and interested in doing that myself, just wondering about the 180 popup lights, i'm fairly sure they bolt onto the silvia rad support, but what about the wiring for the lifters? is that there or do u have to put it in?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does this count as a time trial as well? I got all gold in the master super licence (1 lap time trial) and received a McLaren MP4/4 for my trouble.  If anyone else has done this, did you ride the wall right around the first long right hander at Lake Louise snow track to get gold? I couldn't do it any other way... best I could do without riding the was was within 2 tenths of the gold time.
    • I definitely get the low power, sporty car to drive to smash gears but not be doing eleventy million miles an hour! It makes all the normal drives fun!   Rev match tune sounds like the funs! I didn't know the NC had a DBW throttle!   As for me, still have the Skyline, it still has the Barra in it. It's been pushed to the side of the workshop at the moment. Pretty much waiting on me finishing the wiring, and dropping new fuel lines in. Got myself an ACDC Tig end of last year so been teaching myself TIG welding to build a few things for the Skyline. The missus wrote off her GTB liberty at the end of last year, and got it back on salvage rights stupid cheap. It's also still registered, so will mean easier for me to take to the track already done most of the panel damage, just playing "clear the workshop" to make space to pull the motor and box out, fix some oil leaks, replace the clutch, and replace a few minor broken things.  Also got a Lathe at the start of the year, which is adding to the annoyance of no space, which is another reason I'm trying to build things to get more space, to get the Lathe back in a final home for it. It's a BIG lathe, can turn a 355mm diameter, and 1metre between centres... Got it at a steal! So between it and the TIG and old MIG welder, I'll be fabbing some fun little shit up But we've had a lot of shit stuff happening at home, so it's slow going getting things done. But one step at a time!
    • I love Catalunya.  Got a 1:54.632. The AMG is a hoot.
    • I hadn't got that far, my main worry was the connection to the actual calipers themselves. I'm just using new (ish) stock brake lines in the stock setup. I've just had a stud welded to the knuckle that is a little lower than the original stud (so my knuckles have two studs each side) to not have it be stretched so far in previous BBK setups, so the "block" (in the second picture) mounts a little lower for me and I hope I don't need to change anything. I may have even changed the connection to the calipers in the past and have since forgotten I did that. I may not have. Guess how I'm gonna find out. Source: hopium
    • It's more so I'm using the 1x piece line from HEL that goes from the body to the caliper. There's no middle block/mount like the HFM ones or the GKtech ones. There are certain angles/suspension compression where the line actually slightly contacts the ARB. Below of how mine sit (not my photo): How I want it:  
×
×
  • Create New...