Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Rb25det 1.5 - Dramas

Nissan Maaaart
 Share

Recommended Posts

Nissan Maaaart Enthusiast

Nissan Maaaart

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi there Guys,

Dont know what else i can do --

I've replaced Fuel Pump, put new vaccum lines on everything, swapped AFM, CAS, Cleaned AAC, New Plugs, New Fuel Filter, New AirFilter. New Fuel Pressure Reg.

ODB says the ECU has no Error codes.

Car is still not firing.

I did get it to fire for 10mins the other day by clamping the return line passed the one-way diafram mounted on the drivers side strut tower.

The car didn't respond well to accelleraor actions stalling the motor.

Any Ideas - I'm ready to blow it up.

Nissan Maaaart Enthusiast

Nissan Maaaart

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hi there Guys,

Dont know what else i can do --

I've replaced Fuel Pump, put new vaccum lines on everything, swapped AFM, CAS, Cleaned AAC, New Plugs, New Fuel Filter, New AirFilter. New Fuel Pressure Reg.

ODB says the ECU has no Error codes.

Car is still not firing.

I did get it to fire for 10mins the other day by clamping the return line passed the one-way diafram mounted on the drivers side strut tower.

The car didn't respond well to accelleraor actions stalling the motor.

Any Ideas - I'm ready to blow it up.

Righto -- Scrap that -- Car seems to have some timing issues- but unsure where the lower timing mark is - as the Timing belt casing is all munted up. ODB seems to say that the Defaut Timing is 20BTDC and then when the car had run will run okish at around 30BTDC which is 15deg out of standard - I have lined the top up and everything seems to be good - but when the timing light is on all the marks on the lower pully are all the way to the right (half way around is the first marking on the pully).

Does anyone have detailed instructions on using ODB?

Nissan Maaaart Enthusiast

Nissan Maaaart

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Just a thought, but in the mean-time try reseting your ecu.... Its an easy thing to do and sometimes helps

Thanks buddy - but unfortunately didnt' help just this time :blush:

Does anyone have a picture of where the lower timing mark is on for the Crankshaft Pully?

Nissan Maaaart Enthusiast

Nissan Maaaart

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Thanks buddy - but unfortunately didnt' help just this time :blush:

Does anyone have a picture of where the lower timing mark is on for the Crankshaft Pully?

Does anyone have any recommendations for Mobile Mechanics - or Decent shops on the Northside of Brisbane that know about these RB's or have further testing equipment.

As I've wasted too much time in replacing and testing items, and I'm at the point where I need this vehicle going, or an evaluative messure on what is going wrong and how much it will cost to fix?

akaaa7 Enthusiast

akaaa7

Posted
Posted

Hey bud there's a valve at the back of ur plenum at the firewall I think it's called the aac valve, this controls ur idle, pull it off 4 bolts and disconnect plug clean it with carby cleaner or break caliber cleaner thy fill up with carbon n can cause idle hunting. Be careful not to lose spring inside. Also there's a cold start valve underneath the plenum that works like a choke that could be playin up also, has a hose goin in one end hose comin out n basically chokes the air on Start might be stuck has a slide action to it giv that a clean to

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...