Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there Guys,

Dont know what else i can do --

I've replaced Fuel Pump, put new vaccum lines on everything, swapped AFM, CAS, Cleaned AAC, New Plugs, New Fuel Filter, New AirFilter. New Fuel Pressure Reg.

ODB says the ECU has no Error codes.

Car is still not firing.

I did get it to fire for 10mins the other day by clamping the return line passed the one-way diafram mounted on the drivers side strut tower.

The car didn't respond well to accelleraor actions stalling the motor.

Any Ideas - I'm ready to blow it up.

Hi there Guys,

Dont know what else i can do --

I've replaced Fuel Pump, put new vaccum lines on everything, swapped AFM, CAS, Cleaned AAC, New Plugs, New Fuel Filter, New AirFilter. New Fuel Pressure Reg.

ODB says the ECU has no Error codes.

Car is still not firing.

I did get it to fire for 10mins the other day by clamping the return line passed the one-way diafram mounted on the drivers side strut tower.

The car didn't respond well to accelleraor actions stalling the motor.

Any Ideas - I'm ready to blow it up.

Righto -- Scrap that -- Car seems to have some timing issues- but unsure where the lower timing mark is - as the Timing belt casing is all munted up. ODB seems to say that the Defaut Timing is 20BTDC and then when the car had run will run okish at around 30BTDC which is 15deg out of standard - I have lined the top up and everything seems to be good - but when the timing light is on all the marks on the lower pully are all the way to the right (half way around is the first marking on the pully).

Does anyone have detailed instructions on using ODB?

Just a thought, but in the mean-time try reseting your ecu.... Its an easy thing to do and sometimes helps

Thanks buddy - but unfortunately didnt' help just this time :blush:

Does anyone have a picture of where the lower timing mark is on for the Crankshaft Pully?

Thanks buddy - but unfortunately didnt' help just this time :blush:

Does anyone have a picture of where the lower timing mark is on for the Crankshaft Pully?

Does anyone have any recommendations for Mobile Mechanics - or Decent shops on the Northside of Brisbane that know about these RB's or have further testing equipment.

As I've wasted too much time in replacing and testing items, and I'm at the point where I need this vehicle going, or an evaluative messure on what is going wrong and how much it will cost to fix?

Hey bud there's a valve at the back of ur plenum at the firewall I think it's called the aac valve, this controls ur idle, pull it off 4 bolts and disconnect plug clean it with carby cleaner or break caliber cleaner thy fill up with carbon n can cause idle hunting. Be careful not to lose spring inside. Also there's a cold start valve underneath the plenum that works like a choke that could be playin up also, has a hose goin in one end hose comin out n basically chokes the air on Start might be stuck has a slide action to it giv that a clean to

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...