Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im just installing my front mount and i cant find any where to bolt the top of the intercooler to? just wondering where any of you guyys have bolted it to? And another thing ive got a do luck front bar that eill be goin on soon, i tryed test fitting it today and have found out that it hits the reo bar by a fair bit. ill have to pretty mmuch have to cut it the same width of the front mount at the front, are you aloud to cut the reo bar or is it yellow sticker material if i cut it. my dad seems to think that your not aloud to cut it.

any help will be great <3

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325462-front-mount-install-trouble/
Share on other sites

post pictures of your front mount and possibly the front end of your car also so people can suggest things you can do, fmic kits can differ in mounting points from one to another

most kits ive seen bolt onto the bottom of the radiator support via brackets and also onto the reo bar, also via brackets

i have seen cut reo bars pass the pits, just dont cut it so far that it makes it flimsy, theres no need to go that far

theres no way of installing the fmic without cutting it anyway, only cut whats in the way pretty much, common sense

well GTR re-inforcement bars are quite different

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v24/V5MA.../Picture006.jpg <- pic gtr front end (note it even has holes for n1 vents which also make it even more weaker)

by cutting the lower part of the gtst front reos, your ultimately making into the shape of a gtr one, i will admit however, the gtr intercoolers are tucked in abit more closer due to the obvious fact that factory design of the gtr front cooler is better than the aftermarket install of most kits going around.

with abit of custom work you can reduce the amount that you need to cut but people dont cut their reo bars for fun, its obviously the only way to do it given the size of intercooler being fitted.

dont be afraid, just do it, some cars dont even come with reo bars from factory, eg s14's

Gtr coolers also sit a tiny bit lower than afrtermaket kits and are on a slight angle at the bottom end.

yes it is illeagal to hack up the reo bar but as long as you've taken lil bits out so the fmic sit nice and snug some pit inspectors will turn a blind eye towards it.

but Hanaldo and snozzle are right depends on what type of cooler you have.

Surely the reo bar on GTRs is made of a stronger material... ?

Mount it to the radiator support/bonnet release support....or get a more narrow intercooler and hang it from the bottom of the reo bar, intercoolers that big are overkill for Skylines, and even more pointless if you're going to run 1.5 metres of pipe back around the engine bay to the factory intake plenum, that amount of air flow just isnt needed unless you're running some 25psi monster (then who'd be asking the question on SAUWA...)

Edited by Nic_A31
  • 1 month later...
well GTR re-inforcement bars are quite different

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v24/V5MA.../Picture006.jpg <- pic gtr front end (note it even has holes for n1 vents which also make it even more weaker)

by cutting the lower part of the gtst front reos, your ultimately making into the shape of a gtr one, i will admit however, the gtr intercoolers are tucked in abit more closer due to the obvious fact that factory design of the gtr front cooler is better than the aftermarket install of most kits going around.

with abit of custom work you can reduce the amount that you need to cut but people dont cut their reo bars for fun, its obviously the only way to do it given the size of intercooler being fitted.

dont be afraid, just do it, some cars dont even come with reo bars from factory, eg s14's

hi, have been reading abot coler setups.. i have a gtr reo on my gtst, will i have to cut the reo at all if i use a aftermarket cooler, or should i just get a gtr intercooler?, the tanks on the ends bent back, im a bit confused on what to use with the piping to link up to that. thanx if someone could help out..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...