Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, Wanted to add; R32 interior gear and handbrake boots don't fit the a31. If anyone is willing to lend me their Manual vin number, I can get the part numbers from TAARK (ns.com) and post them up? Mine's a convert auto>man so the numbers obviously don't match up.

  • 4 months later...
  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Dixcel part numbers for A31 rotors front and rear, available on yahoo auctions japan, Acre also do rotors but only front.

A31Rotors.jpg

Someone may need to talk sweet to the guys at import monster to get a batch landed

Cheers Mike

Edited by mikie

ceffy brakes are crap anyway, only slightly bigger then s13 ca18det/ sr20de brakes

if your gonna go the effort for new rotors may as well run front s13 brakes sr20det brakes( same as r33 N/A) and r33 n/a rear brakes if you plan to clear 15"s

then again nic says 20e to 20det brakes are all the same, part numbers up top do differ for det

no dimensions for the det front rotors anyone?

Edited by Dan_J
  • 2 weeks later...

VL speedo cable fits well, it doesn't mount on the dash frame like the r32 one. you need to fit the cluster input first, mount the cluster and then the input for the gear box due to the way it mounts on the cluster.

the cone for the cluster input fits tightly on and then you shimmy the cluster back while trying to push it back on an angle to mount it

think it will last me longer then the r32 unit as i've gone through 2 already

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...

yeah i know they fit on the front but its the rear that i wanna know.. im assuming its a r32 rear strut brace that fits cos the bolt holes are more square if u know wat i mean...

Hi Yeh R32 GTR,GTST, GT-4,Cefiro, Cefiro SE4, ALL Rear strut braces fit each other, My Cefiro SE-4 Front strut brace is the same as R32, GTR, GT-4, Cheer's Jamind

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I picked up my block and head last week and have been slowly assembling it since then. Pictures I took earlier this week. The rest of the auxiliaries are on now. I just have my intake manifold runners to tap for my WMI direct port setup before putting it back on. I should hopefully have the motor back in by this weekend.   
    • I couldn't agree more. As an owner of a built high HP skyline, I'd be a hypocrite to not buy a Hummer for the reasons you listed though haha. 
    • Hahaha oh shit! Again!
    • Is this the one? https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php?id_product=2192&rewrite=nissan-stagea-c34-rear-boot-actuator-assembly-90550-0v000 Might be worth having a look at yahoo japan as well. Though it seems a bit odd. If the motor works itself, other than being noisy, then wouldn't it be more likely that it's an electrical issue somewhere else? And it being noisy does not seem as surprising if it has been chugging away for months  
    • I know this thread is quite old, but I found it, it helped me, but I also wanted to add my experience and troubleshooting finds to the chat for others. I have not been able to open the rear hatch of my 97 Stagea for several months. Figured it had just really sealed itself up over the winter and I would just get to it eventually. Well that day was yesterday. Some time ago, I noticed my battery was going flat all the time. It was frustrating. Then one quiet night in the garage, I could hear and ever so slight humming / grinding noise coming from the back of the car. It was like a really quiet popping sound or something like sand in a very low speed blender. I took off the panels in the back and noticed the noise coming from the auto close motor, so I unplugged it and the noise stopped. And the auto close was disabled. Well, fast forward to yesterday, I tried all the tricks with power and fuse and lock and unlock and I still could open the damn hatch. So I took off the panels from the inside and found the auto lock had engaged and was stuck in close position. When plugging and unplugging the fuse, I could hear the relay clicking. So I plugged the autoclose motor back in, and the damn thing let go. And immediately started making that grinding sound again. This time, instead of just unplugging the motor, I pulled the fuse, thus depowering the relay entirely. I don't have the autoclose feature now, but at least I can open the boot and not have my battery being sucked dead all the time. Not sure what caused the motor to latch when it was unplugged from the system, but I am pretty sure it won't cause any more problems now.  If anyone has a lead on a new motor, please let me know. It's a cool feature that I would like to get back.  Hope this helps.
×
×
  • Create New...