Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Depends on how much compliance costs but it is more then likely nothing gets changed, as stated else were when you are paying less for compliance then what the parts required to comply it correctly are it means only one thing.

I know of workshops who use the same oil in FD RX7's and EVO's that they put into there Diesel Delica's, so what if the oil is changed when they put crap in it on high end cars (they put general use oil in that is cheap as).

When I got my EVO 8 after compliance I went to a specialist workshop and said dump everything, wasn't cheap but cranked through a lot of klm's over last 3 years with no problems.

The EVO's amaze me more then anything else, even if the engine oil is changed there is still a lot more left to change. Had one guy with a 60,000 klm car ask why is the oil like that as he had only done 5,000 klm's since buying.

When you see oil come out of rear diff like treacle over and over but still no one listens as they think it is a scam to earn a workshop money, below is an image of treacle in case you don't know (oil was a little browner).

treacle.jpg

  • 1 month later...
don't even bother expecting workshops to changing any fluids for you. times have changed and at the price of what we pay for compliance, don't expect anything. they will however fill up your washer bottle if it's running abit low.

When I do an M35 for compliance I do everything down to the wiper blades let alone oils and filters and the only difference in price is the cost of the Catalytic Converters nothing else. It is actually a breach of the Trade Practices act no matter which state you are in and as a consumer you have every right after paying for compliance to have all items required for compliance to be fitted.

So as an example a car goes to QLD for compliance and as per Mingy's comment nothing is done, just to save a few dollars but costs more in shipping and again nothing is done. Well you receive the car here in WA take it to the pits for inspection and it fails for brake pads, tyres or what ever reason well a quick call to Dept of Fair Trading and you will be informed the workshop has to cover all costs.

It is actually in a round about way written on the DOTARS documents before you even get to the ADR's, Fair Trading act and Clarity in Pricing by the ACCC.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...