Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I realise that 99.9% of you probably aren't interested in the R34 4 doors, so you can probably stop reading here. Anyway, if you're at all interested in them, here's a really good site that lists so many things I did not know about the sedan. I just thought I'd share this goldmine of info -

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/t...sedan/&lp=ja_en

There's some nice pics there too.

There's no coupe info there, so if it's not your thing, then don't bother looking :cheers:

Cheers,

Michael

BTW as an aside, does anyone know if the 25GT-X Turbo models have different badging on the back from the plain 25GTt? I haven't found any close up shots of one - only the 25GTt (maybe the GT-X turbo has the same sticker, so that's why I can't find a shot of a GT-X sticker).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32591-r34-sedan-info/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks, Dave

It certainly does look like it's a custom job. In fact, the 25GTt badge is down at the bottom. So I guess if that car is a GT-X Turbo, then that pic confirms that they come with the standard 25GTt badge. That makes my job a little harder to spot a GT-X to buy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32591-r34-sedan-info/#findComment-653173
Share on other sites

Another excuse for me to post mine.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...tachmentid=9415

I've already got rid of that ugly yellow number plate but I want to get clear indicator lenses although I haven't paid for my zorst (ordered from Japan though) or the Billsteins not yet ordered.

I think, seeing some of those that I might get rid of the wing. Opinions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32591-r34-sedan-info/#findComment-653212
Share on other sites

GT-X does exist, its R34 GT-X which has RB25DE Neo engine with 4WD Atessa. 4Door.

 

My pick of cars have to be

 

Silver R34 GTT 4door

Impul R33 GTST Door RB25DET

Nismo R33 GTR 4d00r RB26DETT

The GT-X comes in NA 2WD, NA 4WD and 2WD turbo variants for the series 1 R34. They dropped the turbo variant of the GT-X for series 2 and changed the 25GTt a little.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32591-r34-sedan-info/#findComment-653214
Share on other sites

here's a late model GTT interior:

R34GTR_7.jpg

and what I believe to be a late model front bumper:

R34GTR_11.jpg

Some other changes:

The wheels on late model cars are slightly darker in color.

The interior has a lot of color-coordinated bits, the gear level and steering wheel, the centre console etc.

Engine wise, Nissan tweaked the Neo engine so late model cars have improved torque output.

There was another mechanical change too, but I can't recall what is was! :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32591-r34-sedan-info/#findComment-653232
Share on other sites

Yep, the 4 door silver one above is a 4 door R34 GTT, with after market panels added. It's also got the factory optional window tinting of the rear windows, and the 'wind guard' around the front windows..

ie it's the same car as I drive :-)

I'm not sure what the difference was between the GT-X Turbo, and the GTT, though most of the web sites I've seen ie

http://history.jbskyline.net/index5.php#10thgen

think that the X is the model down.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32591-r34-sedan-info/#findComment-653250
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...