Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Boosting Too High

hj61vx

By hj61vx,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

hj61vx Newbie

hj61vx

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

I just recently purchased an R32 GTR. Just fitted a boost gauge and noticed that it boosts up to around 20PSI. I'm not sure if there are stock turbo's in this car ... i know at 20PSI, it is no good for stock turbo's.. question is, how do i reduce the boost back to safer levels? say 12PSI?

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325931-r32-gtr-boosting-too-high/
Share on other sites
Spurdo Experienced

Spurdo

Posted
Posted

at 20PSI this also no good for a stock engine (it will probably destroy it before long). i would start by finding the vacuum lines that come off the actuator on the turbos, make sure they are connected properly and follow them back looking for a split or a leak. or if someones fitted a boost tap you might find that somewhere along the lines. to reduce the boost pressure you first must find what has increased it.

if you cant work it out take it to a workshop (ideally one thats familiar with gtrs) they should be able to work it out pretty quickly.

right now you should assume it's stock standard as you dont know any different, so stay off the boost altogether until either a)its fixed. or b)you discover you have a built engine, aftermarket turbos and a tuned ecu.. lol

i'd like to think no one is wreckless enough to buy a gtr without asking the question "is it modified?" and get every detail if it is. neglecting this very simple step will result in you opening up a good ol' can of worms. i sort of made this mistake when i was 17 and it cost me dearly but we wont go into that.

Spurdo Experienced

Spurdo

Posted
Posted

only way really is to take off all the surrounding pipework to uncover them, if they are aftermarket they might have a brand name on the compressor cover, again probably a job for a tuning shop that knows their turbos and could positively identify them as there are some very minute external differences (if any) between a lot of turbos. if they are stock turbos that have been high flowed then it'll be even harder to tell. first thing i'd do is look at the compressor wheel, if its steel then its probably aftermarket. ceramic and it'll definately be stock, the ceramic ones dont like putting up with continued abuse.

EdGTR Enthusiast

EdGTR

Posted
Posted

No they dont! My R32 dropped the rear ceramic wheel a few months ago and the bits went back past the exhaust valves and destroyed my engine. You should see the scratches in the bores. Also if its still running the standard comp it will be having issues at that boost. its not the gauge is it. Can you borrow another one to double check?

lotsalag Contributor

lotsalag

Posted
Posted

I'd get it to a gtr experienced workshop asap. something is very wrong.

if they're stock turbos im surprised they're in one piece, if not stock and it has no other mods be very worried too!

fingers crossed its just a busted actuator hose, even so i'd be surprised if ur turbos or engine for that matter aren't damaged. :thumbsup:

Spurdo Experienced

Spurdo

Posted
Posted
sort of on the topic rb26 twin turbo setup the wastegate lever's attached to actuator rod with little CIRCLIP

any1 know a decent trick to getting them out without fkn around ... very tight spot

grow some ninja fingers. also use a small ultra fine flat blade screwdriver to flick it out maybe? and for the love of god dont drop the circlip.. it will vanish into thin air

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

^^^ +1 !!!!!!!!!!!!

yeah you can move it to the point where you can squeeze a screwdriver in there and prise it out, but sweet merciful fk don't drop it. i did and it landed on the plastic guard under the engine bay, the gf was not amused when i asked her to get it with her thinner arms, not amused at all haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...