Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I just recently purchased an R32 GTR. Just fitted a boost gauge and noticed that it boosts up to around 20PSI. I'm not sure if there are stock turbo's in this car ... i know at 20PSI, it is no good for stock turbo's.. question is, how do i reduce the boost back to safer levels? say 12PSI?

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325931-r32-gtr-boosting-too-high/
Share on other sites

at 20PSI this also no good for a stock engine (it will probably destroy it before long). i would start by finding the vacuum lines that come off the actuator on the turbos, make sure they are connected properly and follow them back looking for a split or a leak. or if someones fitted a boost tap you might find that somewhere along the lines. to reduce the boost pressure you first must find what has increased it.

if you cant work it out take it to a workshop (ideally one thats familiar with gtrs) they should be able to work it out pretty quickly.

right now you should assume it's stock standard as you dont know any different, so stay off the boost altogether until either a)its fixed. or b)you discover you have a built engine, aftermarket turbos and a tuned ecu.. lol

i'd like to think no one is wreckless enough to buy a gtr without asking the question "is it modified?" and get every detail if it is. neglecting this very simple step will result in you opening up a good ol' can of worms. i sort of made this mistake when i was 17 and it cost me dearly but we wont go into that.

only way really is to take off all the surrounding pipework to uncover them, if they are aftermarket they might have a brand name on the compressor cover, again probably a job for a tuning shop that knows their turbos and could positively identify them as there are some very minute external differences (if any) between a lot of turbos. if they are stock turbos that have been high flowed then it'll be even harder to tell. first thing i'd do is look at the compressor wheel, if its steel then its probably aftermarket. ceramic and it'll definately be stock, the ceramic ones dont like putting up with continued abuse.

No they dont! My R32 dropped the rear ceramic wheel a few months ago and the bits went back past the exhaust valves and destroyed my engine. You should see the scratches in the bores. Also if its still running the standard comp it will be having issues at that boost. its not the gauge is it. Can you borrow another one to double check?

I'd get it to a gtr experienced workshop asap. something is very wrong.

if they're stock turbos im surprised they're in one piece, if not stock and it has no other mods be very worried too!

fingers crossed its just a busted actuator hose, even so i'd be surprised if ur turbos or engine for that matter aren't damaged. :thumbsup:

sort of on the topic rb26 twin turbo setup the wastegate lever's attached to actuator rod with little CIRCLIP

any1 know a decent trick to getting them out without fkn around ... very tight spot

grow some ninja fingers. also use a small ultra fine flat blade screwdriver to flick it out maybe? and for the love of god dont drop the circlip.. it will vanish into thin air

^^^ +1 !!!!!!!!!!!!

yeah you can move it to the point where you can squeeze a screwdriver in there and prise it out, but sweet merciful fk don't drop it. i did and it landed on the plastic guard under the engine bay, the gf was not amused when i asked her to get it with her thinner arms, not amused at all haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
×
×
  • Create New...