Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I just recently purchased an R32 GTR. Just fitted a boost gauge and noticed that it boosts up to around 20PSI. I'm not sure if there are stock turbo's in this car ... i know at 20PSI, it is no good for stock turbo's.. question is, how do i reduce the boost back to safer levels? say 12PSI?

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325931-r32-gtr-boosting-too-high/
Share on other sites

at 20PSI this also no good for a stock engine (it will probably destroy it before long). i would start by finding the vacuum lines that come off the actuator on the turbos, make sure they are connected properly and follow them back looking for a split or a leak. or if someones fitted a boost tap you might find that somewhere along the lines. to reduce the boost pressure you first must find what has increased it.

if you cant work it out take it to a workshop (ideally one thats familiar with gtrs) they should be able to work it out pretty quickly.

right now you should assume it's stock standard as you dont know any different, so stay off the boost altogether until either a)its fixed. or b)you discover you have a built engine, aftermarket turbos and a tuned ecu.. lol

i'd like to think no one is wreckless enough to buy a gtr without asking the question "is it modified?" and get every detail if it is. neglecting this very simple step will result in you opening up a good ol' can of worms. i sort of made this mistake when i was 17 and it cost me dearly but we wont go into that.

only way really is to take off all the surrounding pipework to uncover them, if they are aftermarket they might have a brand name on the compressor cover, again probably a job for a tuning shop that knows their turbos and could positively identify them as there are some very minute external differences (if any) between a lot of turbos. if they are stock turbos that have been high flowed then it'll be even harder to tell. first thing i'd do is look at the compressor wheel, if its steel then its probably aftermarket. ceramic and it'll definately be stock, the ceramic ones dont like putting up with continued abuse.

No they dont! My R32 dropped the rear ceramic wheel a few months ago and the bits went back past the exhaust valves and destroyed my engine. You should see the scratches in the bores. Also if its still running the standard comp it will be having issues at that boost. its not the gauge is it. Can you borrow another one to double check?

I'd get it to a gtr experienced workshop asap. something is very wrong.

if they're stock turbos im surprised they're in one piece, if not stock and it has no other mods be very worried too!

fingers crossed its just a busted actuator hose, even so i'd be surprised if ur turbos or engine for that matter aren't damaged. :thumbsup:

sort of on the topic rb26 twin turbo setup the wastegate lever's attached to actuator rod with little CIRCLIP

any1 know a decent trick to getting them out without fkn around ... very tight spot

grow some ninja fingers. also use a small ultra fine flat blade screwdriver to flick it out maybe? and for the love of god dont drop the circlip.. it will vanish into thin air

^^^ +1 !!!!!!!!!!!!

yeah you can move it to the point where you can squeeze a screwdriver in there and prise it out, but sweet merciful fk don't drop it. i did and it landed on the plastic guard under the engine bay, the gf was not amused when i asked her to get it with her thinner arms, not amused at all haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...